Remembering Malik Muhammad Nawaz PSP. teacher, Cop or a Reformer ?

Remembering Malik Muhammad Nawaz PSP. A teacher, a Cop or Reformer ?

 Died in Islamabad. he was the first top cop of Islamabad. 

Never met him as a police officer and never forgot him as a teacher. 1960-61 he was a teacher at 

Government College Sargodha , now Sargodha university. His class always began with a few lines from the book, placed inverted open on the desk, Malik sahib sitting on the table and started discussing any thing on his mind about the students , development and Pakistan.

end of the period bell he would say remind me when astray, we have to finish the course work also.
when he came back from his civil services exam, asked about the papers , he responded not good, he was selected and explained it , " It was not that I was very good, the others were not.'
Still feel he might have brought about a bigger change , had he continued as a teacher.
God bless u malik sahib.end of the period bell he would say remind me when astray, we have to finish the course work also.when he came back from his civil services exam, asked about the papers , he responded not good, he was selected and explained it , " It was not that I was very good, the others were not.'Still feel he might have brought about a bigger change , had he continued as a teacher.God bless u Malik sahib.

OUR SECOND TRAVEL TO INDIA

A FACTUAL TRAVELOGUE

OUR SECOND TRAVEL TO INDIA

NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER 2012

DATEWISE DIARY OF INDIAN TRAVEL ON A VISIT VISA OF THIRTY DAYS

BY BASHIR AHMAD KHADIM

Retired Chief Engineer Telecommunications (T&T / PTCL)

HOUSE No. 226 Street 18 Sector F- 10/2 Islamabad Pakistan

Phone: + o51 2212476            Mobile Phone: +0345 5096929

E-mail address: khadimbashir@gmail.com

PREFACE:

Some of my friends asked me why I travelled twice to India on a visit visa for thirty days each time. I told them that I went to India for seeing our birthplace and that of our forefathers. I also went to see incredible India with its strange places and people. They asked me how the treatment of Indians to us was. I told them that it was indeed excellent. They nodded their heads in affirmative but they did not seem to have believed what I had told them although it was absolutely true. They did not believe me due to an extreme mistrust between our two nations. For minimizing this extreme mistrust both the governments of India and Pakistan have recently signed a treaty to facilitate visa requirements on both sides. I firmly believe that this initiative would certainly minimize the mistrust although it may not eliminate it so soon.  The mistrust created over a long time of more than six decades would take sometime to go away gradually.

When someone goes to a foreign country he or she wants to see as much as he or she can. Confining his or her destinations to three or five places does not serve the purpose of the visit. I hope and wish that both India and Pakistan would gradually eliminate the condition of visiting only a few destinations. This of course would happen as and when the full confidence is restored between both the nations. People to people contacts are essential for this purpose. The restrictions must be initially relaxed for the senior citizens of both the countries. The results would be certainly encouraging without any doubt.

I am often asked as to what I have seen in my two visits of India. This question cannot be replied in a few simple words. Limited things could only be seen in the limited time at our disposal. In the attached pages of this brief travelogue is described very briefly what was seen by us during our visit visa of thirty days only. I hope the prospective visitors would find much desired information for their use as and when they have the chance of visiting India.

I must thank the governments of India and Pakistan for facilitating the visa requirements. I particularly express our sincere gratitude to our hosts in India who were extremely hospitable. They made our tour most comfortable and memorable. We also thank Indians in general who were of great help to us as and when we needed it.

Bashir Ahmad Khadim

Retired Chief Engineer Telecommunications (Pak. T&T / PTCL)

House 226 Street 18 Sector F-10/2 Islamabad Pakistan.

Phone: + 051-2212476       Mobile Phone: + 0345-5096929

E-mail: khadimbashir@gmail.com

Date: 13^th of December 2012.

Our First Trip to India:

Our first trip to India was in November and December 2007. My grandfather and father had tried for many decades to get the Indian visit visa so that they could see their birth places but all their continued efforts failed repeatedly. I also tried for many years but could not get the Indian visit visa for seeing my birthplace in India. Hence when in early November 2007, I and my wife got the Indian visit visas for the first time for thirty days our joy knew no bounds. In fact we did not feel like believing it as it was totally unexpected. We saw our birthplaces and many other important places as briefly described in OUR FIRST TRAVEL TO INDIA during November and December 2007.

ONLINE VISIT VISA APPLICATION FOR OUR SECOND TRAVEL TO INDIA:

We were fortunate again to get the Indian visit visa for thirty days in early November 2012. Formerly in 2007, the visit visa application had to be prepared on a downloaded form and it was very easy to fill it. In 2012, the visit visa application was made online as a mandatory requirement. It consisted of three pages totally concealed from each other. Hence the filling of data/information on the online application form had become very cumbersome. All related data and information had to be kept ready in advance for filling the three pages of the online visit visa application. If some time was consumed in finding the data/information to be filled, the online page vanished and all the effort had to be repeated again. This happened many times and we got much disappointed.

Finally I got the expert help of my youngest son, Mr. Eisa Bin Bashir KHADIM and after making many mistakes, times and again, we were able to complete the online visit visa application forms for me and for my wife on 17^th of October 2012. As per standing procedure, we had to be informed by the Indian High Commission at Islamabad about the fate of our visit visa applications through our phones or e-mail. After waiting and getting no response for quite sometime, I approached the first secretary of the Indian High Commission at Islamabad, Mr. Aquino who was extremely kind to reply instantly through an e-mail instructing me to deposit the hard copies of our related documents. I did so and finally the visit visas were stamped on our passports on 25^th of September 2012. We collected our visa stamped passports on 7th of November 2012.

PROCEESING OF VISIT VISA APPLICATIONS:

To initiate the necessary action on your online visa application, hard copies of all the related documents are to be submitted. Some of your blood relations, some authentic organization or someone else from India as a regular Indian citizen must sponsor you through a formal sponsorship certificate to be duly attested by an Indian government officer. All documents including hard copies of the filled online application, original attested sponsorship certificates, original passports and the copies of the national identity cards along with two passport sized photos have to be submitted in person to the Indian High Commission at Islamabad. You are suitably examined through cross-questioning thoroughly. Your previous record of any foreign travels during the last few years is also examined. After full satisfaction you are given a suitable date for the collection of your passport with visa stamped on it. The date for collection of your visa stamped passport may range from one and a half month to two months. For any doubts, the applicants are advised to clarify them otherwise their visa applications are straight away rejected.

In our case, the first sponsorship certificates were rejected as these were not attested by a government officer. Our hosts at village Isapur/Yousufpur of District Ghaziabad of Utter Pardesh had to take the trouble of getting the fresh sponsorship certificates attested by an government officer. After furnishing the related documents along with original Sponsorship Certificates your visa application is sent to the Indian Ministry of Interior which carries out detailed investigations at your specified destinations in India. After satisfactory reports from all destinations the requisite information is sent to Indian High Commission at Islamabad which then stamps the visa on your original passport for your personal collection as per telephonic or e-mail advice. I am giving these procedural details for the general information and guidance of all concerned.

GETTING INDIAN CURRENCY TO MEET YOUR TRAVEL EXPENSES:

Whenever you travel abroad you need some foreign currency to meet your expenses there. We wanted to take enough amount of Indian currency to meet our tour and travel expenses. We also needed some Indian currency for general shopping at the end of our travel to India. We spent three days at Lahore for this purpose. With the kind help of my friend Mr. Abdul Karim we could hardly manage to arrange about twenty five thousand Indian rupees. This was naturally not enough but there was nothing else we could do. It was later on found that some of the Indian currency arranged by us through our struggle of three days at Lahore was found doubtful. You may have some working knowledge or skill to determine if your local currency notes are genuine or not but to find out about the exchanged foreign currency it is absolutely impossible whether the exchanged currency you got after much struggle is really genuine or not. Having fake currency is also a serious crime. It is therefore very important to arrange genuine foreign currency in advance. Any fake currency even if you are not involved in it in any way is a seriously   punishable crime. Please be very careful about it.

OUR GOING FROM ISLAMABAD TO LAHORE FOR FLYING TO INDIA BY PIA:

Previously in November 2007 for our travel to India we had to catch the Samjhota Express train for going from Lahore to New Delhi. This time we had to go to India by air as my wife was unable to travel by train or bus due to acute rheumatoid disease. Hence on 11^th of November 2012, our youngest son, Mr. Eisa Bin Bashir Khadim took us to Lahore where we stayed with our friend, Mr. Abdul Karim at his residence in Ali Park PECO Road Lahore. Mr. Farooq Anjum and his friend Mr. Tariq Deewan had made the necessary booking of our air travel from Lahore to New Delhi by PIA. It is indeed very sad to note that there are no direct flights from the capital of Pakistan to the capital of India and vice versa. This is the cause of big trouble for the passengers of both the countries. I hope both the countries would take early steps in this connection. This is already provided in the new visa scheme signed by both the countries.

OUR GOING FROM LAHORE TO NEW DELHI BY PIA ON 14^th OF NVEMBER:

On 14^th of November 2012 we boarded the PIA Flight PK270 flying from Lahore International Airport to New Delhi International Airport. Total flying time was forty minutes only. Hence we took off from Lahore at 05:30 pm and landed at New Delhi airport at 06:10 pm. The New Delhi International Airport is very magnificent and long. After landing, the passengers have to travel on foot for about two kilometers to reach the counters of Passport control. Concerned Staff of PIA was very kind to provide a wheel chair to my wife for her convenience whereas I had to walk on foot with a heavy bag on my shoulders. After covering some distance, a lady officer of the New Delhi International Airport helped me with a wheel chair too. It was a great relief for my old tired legs.

The immigration and customs formalities were cleared with no difficulty at all and we went out of airport to see if someone from our hosts had come to receive us at the New Delhi International Airport. There appeared to be none at all. My wife looked very upset and gloomy. I consoled her saying that we could spend the night in some nearby hotel. To our great surprise we saw our hosts standing far away to receive us. We were happy to see them. They were Mr. Parminder and his gracious mother who had come from Meerut to receive us. They welcomed us and we thanked them for receiving us at the airport.

GOING TO OUR FIRST DESTINATION AT VILLAGE ISA PUR/YOUSUF PUR OF DISTRICT GHAZIABAD UTTER PARDESH:

We started our journey in a grand car of our hosts. Delhi is a very big cosmopolitan city scattered over hundreds of square kilometers with its magnificent suburbs. It is lush green everywhere. Some places are very dense jungles full of terrific wild animals and dacoits. The dazzling lights made the city dreamy and very charming. Ghaziabad district Headquarters are located at a distance of nineteen kilometers only from New Delhi but the district area is scattered far away over very long distances.

Our first destination at Isapur village was much closer to the well-known city of Meerut than it was to the Headquarters of Ghaziabad district. Most of the posh areas of New Delhi called NOIDA and NEW NOIDA fall in the district of Ghaziabad. In fact very dense population with skyscrapers and factory/residential buildings is seen on both sides of New Delhi-Meerut Expressway 58. We reached our first destination at midnight on 14^th of November 2012 where our delicious dinner was ready. We were very hungry as our PIA crew had given us scare and scanty snacks during our short flight of forty minutes only. After eating heavily we chatted with our hosts for sometime and then after saying our night ( Isha ) prayers we slept very soundly.

OUR SIGHTSEEING TOUR ON 15^th OF  NOVEMBER 2012 (Thursday):

We woke up early before sunrise and said our morning (Fajar) prayers. In the meantime our bed tea with dry fruits and sweets was presented to us. After taking our bed tea we slept again for sometime to get rid of our tiredness. Then Mr. Parminder sent his driver with his car to take us to his vast luxurious office which is scattered over many acres of land at the centre of his very expensive and large housing project located a the northern outskirts of Meerut City on the Delhi-Deradoon Road. Built-up finished houses of various sizes are sold at very competitive prices. Mr. Parminder and his other associates have similar housing projects located at Hapur, Muzzafarnagar and Deradoon cities. They also develop very grand farmhouses at NOIDA New Delhi. We had the chance to see these grand farmhouses which have no comparables in India or anywhere else in the world. They have specialized in this profitable business.

After taking delicious lunch we went to village Isapur where we met the respected parents of Mr. Sukesh Malik. After taking afternoon tea we went to the sugarcane fields and also visited various forest strips of Sagwan (teakwood) trees planted along the sugarcane fields everywhere. In Utter Pardesh Province of India sugarcane fields and dense mango gardens are scattered every where. This is a very fertile province and relatively much developed as compared to other provinces of India. After enjoying different fields and mango gardens we came back to village Isapur and had long gossip with the parents of Mr. Sukesh Malik whose marriage party we could not attend due to delayed receipt of our visit visas. We were shown the wedding video which was very thrilling containing exciting dances and lively music of all sorts. Then we said our shortened Zohar and Asar prayers together. After dinner we said our sunset (Maghrib) and night (Isha) prayers. We were very tired by then and hence we had a very sound sleep. Before sleeping we discussed our tour program for the next day.

.

Parents of Mr. Sukesh Malik live in the village of Isapur which falls in the district of Ghaziabad. They are very simple and straight forward. Mr. Sukesh Malik works at Saint Petersburg of Russia for the last many years. Our eldest son Mr. Murtaza Bashir Khadim who is a Russian national also works with him at Saint Pertersburg for the management of a group of modern hotels. Mr. Murtaza is very highly qualified. He did his Masters Degree in Software and Hardware Engineering from the Moscow State University of Russia. After sometime he also did his Masters Degree in Hotel Management from Helsinki which is the capital of Finland. He has been holding very elevated positions in Russia and is equally liked by Russians, Indians and Pakistanis.

We went on a business trip to Russia for two months in June and July 2008. We stayed with him in his luxurious bungalow encircled by a boundary wall containing a fine jogging track. His next door neighbor on his left is Mr. Vikas who is an Indian nice fellow married to a beautiful Russian girl. His next door neighbor on his right is an intelligent Pakistani doctor named Mr. Naveed who is also married to a very charming Russian girl called Julia. Dr. Naveed and his lovely wife Julia took us to a beautiful big DACHA (farmhouse) of her parents located in a dense jungle at a distance of more than one hundred kilometers from Saint Petersburg. Parents and grand parents of Julia told us many interesting stories of their childhood and youth during the reign of Soviet Russia.

The youngest brother of Mr. Sukesh works as a farmer in his village Isapur. We saw him working in the sugarcane fields and taking the tractor-trolley full of sugarcanes to the sugar mill located in the adjoining city of Modinagar. Elder brother of Mr. Sukesh Malik is a retired pilot and he is managing the A to Z Housing Project of Mr. Parminder at Hapur City. Unfortunately we could not meet him due to lack of time.

OUR DAILY ACTIVITIES ON 16^th OF NOVEMBER 2012 (Friday):

We woke up before sunrise and after saying our morning prayers we had bed tea with dry fruits and salty refreshments. After taking breakfast Mr. Vinod Kumar alias Pehalwanji came in his car to welcome us. We wanted to say our Juma (Friday) Prayes at Deoband International Islamic Centre which is the largest and world famous religious centre of Islam. We travelled hurriedly along the Delhi-Meerut-Mozzaffarnagar Expressway called National Highway 58. We had a cup of tea at a Dhaba (simple rural restaurant) located on Mozaffarnagar bypass. At about one O’Clock in the afternoon we reached the famous town of Deoband. The grand mosque called Rasheedia Masjid is located near the grand Islamic School called Darul-Oloom. The narrow and zigzag congested streets of Deoband town consumed a lot of time and we missed the Juma (Friday) prayers at Rasheedia Mosque. However we were fortunate to attend the Juma (Friday) prayers at an adjacent mosque. After Friday prayers we wanted to see the important historic places of the town. First of all we went to the famous Eidgah adjoining to which are located the famous Islamic Madrasa of Hazrat Anwar kashmeeri and his simple mud tomb. After praying Fatiha at the tomb we went to see Masjid Rasheedia adjacent to which is located the historic grand religious Islamic Institute called Darul-Oloom. It is a very large Islamic institution with numerous integrated and separated parts comprising huge and grand buildings. We then returned to see the historic and very famous graveyard called Qasmi Graveyard where the founders of the Grand Islamic Centre of Deoband are buried in very simple muddy graves with their names engraved on the marble plates at the head sides of their graves. We prayed for a long time at the grave of Hazrat Mahmood Hasan and other important personalities who played a great role in the establishment and development of the Grand Islamic Centre for the Muslim world. We wanted to return to our first destination as soon as possible but the memorable history of this sacred town of Muslims was compelling us to stay more and more. From Qasmi graveyard we went to the nearby bazaar of Deoband town and bought some religious Islamic books. We also bought a Mosalla (special cloth sheet used for praying on it). It was getting late and we had to see the historic Islamic towns of NANOTA and Thana Bhaun. At Nanota is buried the famous Islamic Scholar called Hazrat Yaqoob Nanotvi. At NANOT town, we tried to locate the tomb of Hazrat Yaqoob which is situated at three kilometers from the city centre of NANOTA town along the NANOTA-SAHARANPUR Road in the north direction. The simple muddy tomb is located in a deserted mango garden with a fortified enclosure having the name of the late Hazrat Yaqoob engraved on a stone on the head side of his grave. There was none from whom we could get some history of this place.

After saying some prayers for us and for the holy soul we started our journey back to visit the famous historic mosque and grave of Hazrat Ashraf Ali Thanwi who was the founder of modern Tableeghee Party (The Preeching Party of Islam). Thana Bahaun city is located at about fifteen kilometers from NANOTA city in the southern direction. We reached THANA BHAUN city at about sunset. It was told that the holy shrine of Hazrat Ashraf Ali Thanwi is located near the railway station in the outskirts of the city which has very narrow and zigzag dirty streets filled with dirty sewage water. After a lot of effort we found the holy shrine where a new grand mosque is being constructed near the tomb of Hazrat Ashrasf Ali Thanwi in a mango garden with an enclosure around the garden. The tomb itself has another muddy enclosure. While standing at the very simple muddy grave of Hazrat Ashraf Ali Thanwi, I had the severest shock of my life. The simplest muddy grave had no epitaph engraved on any stone or metallic plate to indicate the name of the holy soul sleeping there. I asked the reason for it from the local gentleman who had come to guide us from the nearby residence. He told me that Hazrat Ashraf Ali Thanwi had himself bequeathed that there must not be any indication of his name on his grave after his death. This was totally unread and unheard of by me although I had read many of his life sketches. I do not know if the oldest and most staunch Tableeghees (Islamic preachers) know of this startling fact. We wanted to say our Asar prayer in the grand mosque being constructed near the holy grave of Hazrat Ashraf Ali Thanwi but it was locked and there was none to open it. We followed another return route to avoid the zigzag dirty streets of THANA BHAUN town.

We wanted to visit the holy town of GANGOH which is located at a distance of fifteen kilometers from THANA BHAUN town but the sun was setting and we had to return to our destination as soon as possible. Moreover, nothing could be seen properly at night. Hence we decided to miss the holy town of GANGOH with a heavy heart. I offered my sunset prayer (Maghrib) in a rural mosque of a village called Rodhero. There was no proper place for washroom or for ablution. The water had to be brought from a tank in a plastic container called lota. The nearby pond full of village sewage waste was very badly stinking although the mosque was full of persons who gathered there to pray. I wanted to give a long and harsh lecture on keeping the mosque and its environments clean; telling the Muslim villagers the most basic theme of cleanliness which forms an integral mandatory part of Islam. But the time was short as we wanted to return to our destination as soon as possible. It was dark but the condition of the road was very good.

After about one hour we reached our destination where the delicious dinner was waiting for our return. We were hungry. We had our dinner and then said the night prayers. Being extremely tired we slept soon on our very comfortable beds. Before going to sleep I had the dim glimpses of what we had seen today and as to what deep effect it had on me and on the social Islamic life of the Muslims all over the world. Can we revive our golden past? Apparently there seems no way to do so as our condition is deteriorating day by day. But the wise say that disappointment is a sin. We must be hopeful for a better future of Islam and Muslims. The overall collective condition of the Indian Muslims is really pitiable. I discussed this sad state of affairs with numerous Muslim communities but the response for any improvement or reformation was far from any thinkable future. Let us pray for early improvement in all fields and forms. The Islamic scholars must undertake serious research to investigate basic reasons and causes of our degeneration and to find out ways and means for our improvement. Local, national and international detailed short-term and long-term working plans must be formulated and quickly implemented to regain what has been already lost in the past. It is quite possible and very much feasible if we are really determined at all levels of our life. The starting point is to achieve the excellence in education and professional expertise in all fields and walks of our life.

OURVISIT PROGRAM ON 17^th of NOVEMBER 2012 (Saturday):

After our morning (Fajar) prayers we had our bed tea with dry fruits and salty refreshments. Then at about nine O’clock we took our regular breakfast with fenugreek prathas and mixed pickle. While we were taking our breakfast it was told to us that Mr. Vinod kumar Pehalwanji is waiting for us in the adjoining drawing room. He took us to their grand residential project at Meerut city. Their office is located in a very vast and beautiful park at the centre of their residential project. Pehalwanji conducted his usual business for sometime in selling the beautiful bungalows finished in the most elegant form while we roamed in the park taking some memorable photographs.

After half an hour Pehalwanji came to us with his another wrestler friend telling us that we would be taken to an historic church at Sardhana town which is located at a distance of twenty five kilometers in the north western direction of Meerut city. The historic church of Sardhana was built in the 19^th century by a Mughal king as a token of love for his wife called Samroo Begum. This famous church is located in the dense mango garden scattered over many acres of fertile land. A grand expressway was built from the gate to the elevated magnificent building of the church. Very beautiful statues of some Christian religious personalities have been built along both sides of the expressway at regular intervals. We climbed up the stairs and entered the main building of the historic church which has been artistically constructed having domed compartments where numerous Christian groups were busy in their service. A lot of good quality marble has been used on the floors under which some very famous personalities have been buried at numerous places which have huge marble sills on which their names and brief history have been   engraved. A little distance away from the main church building is located the administrative office of the church where numerous holy bibles in different sizes and styles are displayed for sale. I wanted to buy some fancy designs for my friend Dr. Christy Munir who is the Principal of Forman Christian College Lahore. The costs were exorbitant and the lady at the sales counter seemed very angry for some unknown reasons. Hence we left the counter and came out to retrace our journey back towards Meerut city. On both sides of the road very dense mango gardens and sugarcane fields were scattered. There were some lush green fields of various vegetables being irrigated by tube-wells and irrigation water channels. I wished to stop and walk through the lush green vegetable fields but we had a very busy agenda for today. Hence we hurriedly came back to Meerut city where the most gracious mother of Parminder, Mandeep kaur and his charming wife, Monica had prepared dozens of delicious Indian dishes for our lunch. We hurriedly took our lunch and said our noon ( Zohar ) prayer.

Our trip to Deoband International Islamic School could not be completed during our hurried visit of last Friday. We therefore decided to go there once again. Mr. Rahool was deputed as a driver for us. He is a very lovely young man of extremely good nature. We told him our intentions and he started immediately and hurriedly. The national highway number 58 going to Deoband via Muzzaffarnagar is very good and it took us about two hours to reach Deoband International Islamic Centre. We once again saw the main Darul –Oloom buildings and adjoining to it is located the grand Rasheedia Mosque where we prayed our Asar. Many foreign Muslims were absorbed in their prayers and in the silent recitation of holy Quraan. We came out and went to the nearby Qasmi graveyard where we prayed at the simple muddy graves of Hazrat Mahmood Hasan, Hussain Ahmad Madani and Mohammad Qasim after whose name this old historic graveyard has been ascribed.  We bought some Islamic books written in Gurmukhee text and then went to pray at the simple muddy grave of Hazrat Mohammad Anwar Kashmeeri near famous Eidgah of Deoband town. Adjacent to his grave at half a furlong is located the huge and grand Madrasa of Hazrat Mohammad Anwar Kashmeeri. After our prayers we decided to come back to our first destination in India for the night stay. Our lovely driver, Mr. Rahool entertained us with some rare foods and fruits. We came to our destination at about eight O’clock at night. We had our delicious dinner and after saying our night (Isha) prayers we went to sleep as we were very tired due to a hectic tour of today.

It may not be out of place to mention here that our International Islamic Centre at Deoband is located in a very congested dirty environment having very narrow and zigzag streets. The sewage open nullahs for the drainage are stinking very badly every where. I very earnestly request the Muslim global community to take immediate steps for widening the streets and making an adequate underground drainage system based on modern techniques. If it does not look feasible then the entire set up must be shifted to a suitable place outside the congested town of Deoband. Enough land for expansion during coming one hundred years must be acquired immediately and various departments should be shifted there as and when the buildings and concerned infrastructure are completed there gradually. I hope the international Muslim community shall attach due importance to my recommendations. I also request the Indian government to provide sufficient funds.

It would be worthwhile to mention here very briefly that the Sikh Gurdowaras and Hindu Mandirs are very nicely cleaned and maintained round the clock. Their grand buildings are much superior to most of our mosques and Madrasas. Millions of rupees are being spent on monthly basis for their proper upkeep. Proper food and lodging facilities are open for any stranger irrespective of his religion or creed. Most of the Muslim Dargahs are overcrowded with all types of beggars who catch the visitors by their arms and clothes to forcibly extort some amount from them. Notorious groups of pickpockets and expert thieves are roaming everywhere in and around the Muslim shrines. The dirt and dust with stinking smell of waste compel the visitors to finish their visit as soon as possible. Most horrible are the numerous forms of Shirk (equating the holy personalities and graves with God Almighty). Most hateful are also the heinous techniques adopted by the so called professional followers of these Muslim shrines called Mojawars. They ask you repeatedly for the forced contribution in the name of these Muslim shrines. Most of the contributions and donations from Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs and other foreign visitors go directly into the personal pockets of the so called Mojawars at the Muslim shrines. The management of numerous affairs at these Muslim shrines seems absolutely pitiable. What a pity for all of us who call themselves Muslims. It may be of great interest for all the Muslim global community that for all the diverse forms of mismanagement mentioned above about various Muslim shrines, there is one exception which is the holy shrine of Hazrat Mojaddid Alif Sani located at Sirhind Shareef which is very clean and properly maintained. No stinking smell was found there. Muslim shrine of Hazrat Boo Ali Shah Qalandar at Panipat is also somewhat better now whereas previous during our last tour of India in 2007, it was found in a very bad con dition. I wish and pray that similar good examples should be strictly followed at all other Muslim shrines in India and Pakistan including the entire globe.

While saying Fatiha at the holy shrine of Hazratr Mojaddid Alif Sani, I incidantly met the honorable gaddinasheen (spiritual leader incharge) of this shrine. His name is Syed Zobair Farooqui Mojaddidi. We had very useful talk about the pitiable condition of Muslim shrines and also of the Indian Muslims in general. He told me some startling sad facts about them which should better remain untold.

OUR ACTIVITIES ON 18^th OF NOVEMBER 2012 (Sunday):

Today we wanted to visit the newly started grand housing project of A to Z builders owned by Mr. Parminder and his other associates.  This huge and most modern housing project is located at the most beautiful site of the historic hill station called Deradoon. Mr. Pankaj and his bosom hansom friend manage the numerous complex affairs of this huge housing project. Wife of Mr. Pankaj’s friend is a very charming and talented lady doctor. They all live with the parents of the charming lady doctor who also runs an English medium School of great reputation.

Deradoon hill station is located at about one hundred and sixty kilometers from the famous city of Meerut. We had to go there and come back to our destination same day. Hence we had our breakfast very early before sunrise and also took an early start. The road to Deradoon is excellent and we had an expert driver called Rahool who knew the route very well. On our way we had to pass by the famous Islamic city of Deoband of which we had a very hurried visit once again. From Deoband city we went to Roorki city along the bank of a famous canal originating from the river Ganges which is considered very sacred by Hindus. We stopped at Roorki city to get some fruit and medicine for my bruised legs and shoulders. I said my Zohar(midday prayers in a mosque situated on the Roorki- Deradoon Road very close to where we were standing. We again took a hurried start towards Deradoon which is located in the northern hills at a distance of thirty kilometers only from Roorki city. Mr. Punkaj, his hansom friend and his charming wife greeted us with great enthusiasm. We were very hungry and the delicious lunch prepared by the charming lady doctor through reading books was waiting for us. We hurriedly took our lunch and started for the historic hill station called Missouri. Local guide whose name was Mr. Zahoor accompanied us for going to and coming back from Missouri hill station which is located at a distance of thirty kilometers from Deradoon city. We completed a quick tour of Missouri within half an hour and came back to Deeradoon city but did not stop there as we had very little time at our disposal and a long return journey waited for us. After filling our car with enough fuel we started again towards the famous historic town of Rishikesh which is located on the right bank of holy Ganges.

Without stopping anywhere we straight away went o the most historic and famous town of Rishikesh which is located on the banks of holy Ganges which is rushing down from the adjoining hills. The banks of the Ganges were extremely crowded with visiting men, women and children of all ages and races. The suspended long swinging bridge over the Ganges is extremely attractive as it is one of the world wonders. A large number of foreigners were also visiting this important place. After a hurried tour of Rishikesh town we took our early dinner as we were feeling very hungry. After our hurried dinner we went to the most famous and religiously central town of Hardowar which is located on the banks of holy Ganges. We had a very hurried tour of various important historic places at Hardowar. From Hardowar town we went straight to the Roorki town and from there to the nearby Dargah of Hazrat Sabir Kaliaree which is located at a distance of seven kilometers from Roorki city in the north. We had a very hurried visit of this historic Muslim shrine which was extremely crowded with local and foreign visitors. The atmosphere at and around this Dargah is stinking with heaps of dirt, dust sewage overflowing water and wastes of the dirty visitors who are camping there permanently.  We came back to Roorki city and hurried straight to Meerut city via shortcut routes very well known to our lovely driver Mr. Rahool. He traveled a lot today but did not feel any tiredness apparently while we were dozing sleepily.

We had a very delicious special dinner once again near a vast beautiful Muslim restaurant of rural simple design. Such simple rural restaurants are locally called DHABHAS. The road side urban restaurant called a DHABHA here in the local Hindi language was located near a village called PHULKA which was reported to be somewhere close to Deoband. We were extremely tired but our expert driver was very active and alert. He again took some shortcut routes and within less than an hour we were dining at the grand house of Mr. Parminder where his respected mother and wife had prepared a very delicious dinner comprising dozens of famous Indian dishes. We had already taken our dinner twice but we did not feel like annoying our respected hosts. So we had our dinner for the third time as well. After taking dinner we were feeling extremely tired and sleepy. So we hurriedly went to our comfortable beds where we had a very sound sleep at our first destination. In dreams I was seeing hundreds of nice places which I had actually seen during our long and arduous journey of today.

OUR ACTIVITIES ON 19^th OF NOVEMBER 2012 (Monday):

We were too tired to get up early for our morning prayers. With great painful effort we offered our early morning prayers after which we slept again for many hours. Our respected hosts tried to awake us repeatedly but all in vain. Finally at about noon we managed to get up and take our breakfast. Our bodies were severely aching due to an arduous travel of the previous day.  We took some pain killers but got no relief. Our hosts advised us to take a hot shower which proved extremely miraculous. Our hosts offered us a short visit of the historic town of Jain Hindus called Hastinapur which is located at a distance of about twenty kilometers from Meerut city. But we had no courage to move today. After light lunch we again went to our beds and took complete rest for many hours. At about four O’clock in the afternoon we had our evening tea with light snacks. Our hosts wanted to know what had happened to us. They offered to take us to the medical experts for our examination but we refused their good offer with thanks saying that things would improve gradually with the passage of time. So practically speaking we did nothing today except taking complete rest and relaxation which was immensely needed for our too much fatigued bodies.

OUR ACTIVITIES ON 20^th OF NOVEMBER 2012 (Tuesday):

After taking complete rest we were greatly relieved of our excessive fatigue and tiredness of 18^th November 2012. Although we had taken complete rest on 19^th of November 2012 but our bodies still ached to some extent. After some light breakfast we wanted to take more rest today. Our hosts again advised us to take a hot bath and we instantly acted upon their valuable advice which brought an immense relief to our fatigued bodies,

At about midday a very hansom young man called Manooj came to us and informed that he would show us the grand Mandirs of Hindu Jain sect. These wonders of the world are located at the most famous and historic town of Hastinapur which is located at about twenty kilometers from our first destination. We had taken enough rest for one and half a day. Our health restoration after repeated hot baths had been virtually complete. So we decided to get into the new grand jeep called BOLERO brought by the young hansom young man from our first destination who was an expert driver and his name was Mr. Manooj. He is a close relation of Mr. Parminder. We started our journey from our first destination and went to the historic town of Hastinapur within one hour passing through a famous village called Ganeshpur which is six kilometers from Histinapur town. We were extremely amazed on seeing the huge and grand Jain Mandirs with dozens of modern and ancient structures.  So many masterpieces of art and structure can only be seen here and nowhere else in the world. Incredible India really has most rare wonders of the globe. This historic town of Hindu Jain sect is the international centre of Jain saints who are Jain saints were roaming here and there followed by large number of their religious followers. We had read much about Jain saints but had seen none so far.

 The Jain saints were absolutely naked and were moving freely in the historic town of Hastinapur. This was an extremely strange thing for us who had never anything of this sort. Our driver took a few photo shots of the entirely naked Jain saints who were visiting this town in hundreds every day. There is extreme cleanliness everywhere. Our driver took a few photographs of the totally naked Jain saints after paying them rupees twenty per photo. This payment of twenty rupees per photo to the Jain saints appeared very ridiculous. We went from Mandir to Mandir and thought of returning to our destination when the sun was setting down. Our hansom young driver had purchased some samosa-like spicy products called bhatooras which we enjoyed at a diesel filling station of Hastinapur historic town. It was dark and we thought of returning to our first destination in India. It took about an hour or so to reach our destination where we were being waited at the delicious dinner especially prepared for us. First of all we said our sunset and night prayers and then we took our dinner.

On our way back we witnessed a large number of tractor trolleys, trucks and buffalo driven carts full of luggage and families comprising men, women and children. I enquired

from our driver Manooj about thousands of the hurriedly going vehicles in the eastern

direction. He told me that a grand fair is starting next day at Kishtwar city located on the banks of holy Ganges where Hindu families would stay for one week in the open atmosphere bathing in the holy waters of Ganga River. He also vehemently invited us to participate in the weeklong fair but we had no spare time at our disposal and it was also beyond the scope of our visa permissions. Hence we regretted his good offer.

On our return from Hastinapur we visited the newly wed second wife of Pehalwanji. They have a two years old naughty son who is very shrewd and intelligent. We were impressed by his extraordinary intellect. Second wife of Pehalwanji was very beautiful and hospitable.  Parminder’s gracious mother had accompanied us during this social visit. After about one hour we returned to our destination where we had our dinner. After saying our night prayers we went to our beds and slept very soundly.

OUR ACITIVITIES ON 21st^th OF NOVEMBER 2012 (Wednesday):

We had been constantly travelling for the last many days and this had caused us a lot of fatigue. Hence we decided to take complete rest with some local strolling only. We took our breakfast at about nine O’clock in the morning and while in our beds we started updating the recent past news on TV channels. All media and TV channels had been breaking the news of Ajmal Qassab’s hanging in the Drewara jail of Pune where he had been buried inside the jail to avoid any protests. Ajmal Qassab had been convicted during the trial of Bombay case. It was very strange that neither the parents of Ajmal Qassab nor the Pakistani Government had made any demand for the dead body of Ajmal Qassab. All TV channels were broadcasting commentaries on this breaking news.

After watching the news on numerous TV channels I decided to roam about here and there and do some shopping of Gurumukhi books. I walked for about five or six kilometers till I was tired completely. I saw a book store and went inside. After some cursory glancing I bought a dozen of Gurumukhi books on various topics. They were very cheap as compared to their prices in Pakistan. I could not find any sound reason for the huge disparity in prices of the books. After purchasing books I retuned back. The evening tea with light refreshments was ready. We enjoyed the tea and snacks on a very long interesting gossip on many topics of the day. It was time for our evening and sunset prayers. Hence we dispersed and took some rest after our prayers. After some rest important breaking news on some TV channels were watched. Very interesting commentaries were running on some TV channels about hanging of Ajmal Qassab and his burial inside the jail premises. After taking dinner and saying our night prayers we slept vey soundly to become fresh and invigorated for the coming program of next day.

OUR JOURNEY TO AJMER SHARIF ON 22^nd OF NOVEMVER 2012 (Thursday):

  

Today we had to travel to Ajmer Sharif of Rajasthan Province where we had to visit the famous Dargah of Soofi Muslim Saint Hazrat Moeenuddin Chishti Ajmeri. Our train tickets were booked in advance by SHTABDI (Century) EXPRESS which leaves New Delhi railway station at 06:30 am sharp and reaches Ajmer Sharif after five hours stopping for two minutes at Alwar, Jaypur and some other important stations. Indian trains are very punctual. They normally do not become late like those in Pakistan. You can invariably adjust your wrist watches when they start and stop at the specified railway stations as per their scheduled timings. This may sound incredible to Pakistanis who can never imagine the punctuality of Indian trains.

We took our breakfast before four am and after saying our morning (Fajar) prayers we departed from our first destination to the New Delhi railway station. Very heavy traffic was running on the Modinagar- New Delhi Expressway 58. Sugarcane tractor trolleys, trucks and heavily loaded long trailers were moving on the Expressway. We were very carefully driving along other heavy traffic. Finally when we reached the New Delhi railway station we were somewhat late. We had to rush to our reserved VIP A/C compartment which was standing on platform number 2. We had to climb up the stairs and we walked for more than one kilometer over the railway bridge to catch our train standing on platform 2. Our heavy luggage made our walking very slow and difficult although our hosts had sent two helpers with us. As a result of brisk walking my wife started to have serious palpitations. Anyway, our Shatabdi Express train was about to start when we reached it. Our coupa A/C VIP compartment could not be located easily. We contacted a well-built Sardarji who was wearing the railway uniform. We requested him to help us which he provided instantly by showing us our reserved seats in the VIP compartment of the train. We occupied our seats and put our luggage on the upper berths. The train started moving and bundles of numerous refreshments started pouring in too. My wife was still gasping with serious palpitations. She drank a glass of bottled water and felt some minor relief. In the meantime coffee was served with dry fruits and snacks. I made a cup of coffee for my wife whose palpitations became worst. She drank many glasses of water and remained quite disturbed throughout our journey to Ajmer Sharif.

 Charming doctor Bhawna and her hansom husband doctor Anil Kumar were there at Ajmer railway station to receive us. They welcomed us and put our luggage in their car and we were carried to their grand luxurious bungalow located in a posh colony of Ajmer Sharif. First of all we were served with tea and refreshments. After sometime the dinner was served. Then all of us started general gossip on various topics of interest. After some discussion it was decided to visit the Dargah of Hazrat Moeenuddin Chishti Ajmeri next day through some special arrangements as the surroundings of Dargah Shrif were extremely crowded. Due to Moharram and Urs days there was extreme crowd everywhere. Around Dargah Sharif of Hazrat Khawja Moeenuddin Chishti Ajmeri the streets are extremely narrow and congested. The encroachments by the market shopkeepers have made the narrow streets narrower. It is often difficult to pass by another visitor. Crowds of the beggars have blocked the narrow streets further. There is absolutely no discipline or order to keep the crowds moving smoothly. The Mojawars and local followers are busy in fleecing the visitors. The environments around Dargah Sharif are stinking very badly due to heaps of waste materials and overflowing open swage channels. Nobody seems worried about the unhygienic conditions.

In view of the above mentioned sad state of affairs our hosts had made some special arrangements for taking us into Dargah Sharif under the protection and special guidance of a reputed Mojawar, Mr. Shams. Dr. Bhawana is the sister of Mr. Parminder. She and her husband both are reputed veterinary doctors with some rare specializations. Both are government employees. They have one hansom son who is studying in the most reputed college of Ajmer Sharif. He is very industrious and somewhat taciturn.

After taking some rest we had a long session of talks on numerous important topics with our respected hosts. After some time we took hot baths and became fresh. Then some breaking news was observed on some TV channels. Dr. Bhawna prepared a delicious dinner for us in the meantime. After taking our dinner we went to our beds and had very sound sleep. Very interesting dreams were seen during our sleep.

OUR VISIT OF IMPORTANT PLACES AT AJMER SHARIF AND A DETAILED VISIT OF DARGAH SHRIF OF HAZRAT MOEENUDDIN ON 23^rd OF NOVEMBER:

We woke up early before sunrise and offered our morning (Fajar) prayers. In the meantime, our bed tea with dry fruits was placed on our side table. We had a summarized overview of our travel completed so far.  Planning for conducting our coming tours was also made and finalized. After taking our breakfast we had nothing to do except to take complete rest and watch some TV channels. It was decided by our respected hosts that we would be visiting the holy Dargah of Hazrat Moeenuddin Chisti Ajmeri in the afternoon after taking our lunch.

In view of overcrowding at and around Dargah Sharif our hosts had made advance arrangements to help us with the professional guidance of an expert, Mr. Shams, who had been engaged for this purpose. After taking some rest we started to visit the Dargah of Hazrat Moeenuddin Chisti Ajmeri. Mr. Shams who is a reputed Mojawar of Dargah Sharif had been requested to take us with him into the crowded premises of Dargah. Accordingly he hired a special rickshaw to carry us to the main gate of Dargah Sharif through very narrow congested streets where we left our shoes with a caretaker at the main gate and we were very carefully escorted into Dargah Sharif going very close to the grave of the holy saint where we prayed for sometime. The visiting crowds were pushing each other very violently. There was no space for standing peacefully anywhere for even a few seconds. Armies of visitors, beggars and mobile shopkeepers were making too much noise. Abnormally excessive deafening noise made it impossible to hear anything intelligible. Large groups of the visitors were camping inside the premises of Dargah so that no vacant space was left to walk through them. The bustling crowds pushed each other to take their way ahead. At a short distance from the grave of the holy saint, his wife, daughter and other family members are buried. At a short distance further is located the underground worship place of Baba Fareed Shakarganj of Pakpatan. After praying hurriedly at the grave of the holy saint and his family members we moved forward with great difficulty with the help of our guide Mr. Shams. There was an extreme fear of being trampled down under the feet of others. Fatal stampedes are always expected at such overcrowded places. We moved further towards the Jama Masjid where night (Isha) prayer was being collectively offered. I and Mr. Shams joined the praying mob after arranging a safe seat for my wife inside a shop. After our night prayers inside Dargah premises we took her along with us and came out of the crowded premises of Dargah Sharif. We had deposited our shoes with a caretaker outside the main gate and it was difficult to find them when we came out. Mr. Shams, however, traced them easily. We wore them and hurriedly retuned to our hosts who were waiting for us at about one kilometer from Dargah Sharif. We thanked Mr. Shams for his guidance and professional help so that we came safely out of Dargah Sharif. Our hosts took us back to their grand bungalow where we had a deep sigh of relief on retuning alive to our second destination. We had nice tea and snacks to celebrate our safe return from the dangerous crowds which could cause us serious fatal harm due to dangerous stampedes.

It pains me greatly to mention about the stinking atmosphere and extreme mismanagement in and around Dargah sharif. Serious widespread fleecing of visitors was going on everywhere inside the Dargah premises. The narrow streets leading to the gate of holy shrine must be widened and the encroachments must be removed without any delay. The prevailing mismanagement must be curbed immediately. Huge amounts of donations and contributions are pouring in on daily basis round the clock but no amount seems spent on the cleanliness and upkeep of Dargah Sharif. Who is responsible for this extreme negligence? Nobody except the Muslim community itself as a whole and it has to take the entire responsibility. We must make efficient organizations to take due care of such sacred places all over the world.

We took some rest but the serious palpitations of my wife were not subsiding. Dr. Anil Kumar brought his electronic meter to measure the blood pressure of my wife who was feeling much disturbed. The measurements showed abnormally high readings. Dr. Bhawna and Dr. Anil kumar advised me to take her to a medical specialist but my wife was reluctant. I advised her to take complete rest and try to sleep. After some sleep she felt better and we all were greatly relieved. After taking our delicious dinner we again gossiped for a very long time. Lady Doctor Bhawna greatly resembles her gracious mother in size, stature and looks. Her voice also resembles to that of her mother.

Ajmer Sharif is an old historic city where the first treaty between the Mughal emperor Akbar the great and East India Company of Great Briton was signed. We visited the old Akbari Fort where this treaty had been signed by both the parties in a grand drawing room called Deewane Khas. The main gate of the fort has a grand gallery upstairs where the emperor used to hear the grievances of the public at large and passed his orders. Close to the Akbari fort is located a large market where numerous shops of jewellery are located along with reputed shops of spicy dishes and special quality lassi (sweet yogurt solution). We went to these shops where we enjoyed the rare foods of Ajmer Sharif. Before going to the Akbari Fort we had a round of the city as a whole. It is a very large old styled city with some new posh colonies such as Ghandinagar.

After a second general round of Ajmer city we returned to our second destination in India which was the grand bungalow of Dr. Bhawna and her husband doctor Anil Kumar. Their bungalow is very well designed making it a masterpiece of architecture. The finishing of the grand bungalow is extremely elegant. Everything has been chosen with a high taste. The charming couple has contributed a lot in the superb design and fine construction of this grand bungalow. The open lawn of the bungalow has also been very nicely designed. Very rare beautiful plants have been grown in the lawn and some splendid evergreen plants have been placed in the huge vases. I have not seen such rare plants in the local nurseries. It is interesting to note that there is no gardener to take care of their lawn as they themselves take proper care of it.

OUR VISIT OF SOME HISTORIC PLACES AT AJMER SHARIF ON 23^rd OF NOVEMBER 2012 (Friday):

Our main agenda point for visiting Ajmer Sharif was to pray at all sacred places inside the Dargah of holy Muslim soofi saint Hazrat Moeen-uddin Ajmeri. We had already completed this important assignment during the previous day. Today we wanted to visit other important places. After taking our delicious breakfast we were taken by doctor Bhawna and her husband doctor Anil Kumar to their offices located far away from their home. While going to their offices we were again shown various important areas and institutions of Ajmer city which is scattered over vast plains and hilly areas. The city is encircled by many hills and mountains. The city of Ajmer Sharif comprises old styled and very posh modern residential and commercial centers.

During the previous day, we had completed a hurried tour of the historic Akbari fort where the first treaty had been signed between the Mughal Emperor and East India Company. Important decisions to undertake numerous attacks against Mughal enemies had been taken in the grand Deewane-khas. The window of the upper gallery wherein the Emperor used to sit and make decisions after hearing both parties is located upstairs in the magnificent gallery located on the main gate.

After visiting the Akbari fort and enjoying delicious curry and lassi of the adjoining bazaar, doctor Bhawna, once again, showed us various important areas of Ajmer Sharif. Finally she took us to a grand museum of Jain religion situated in the centre of the city. The statues displayed inside the double storied-museum are masterpieces of art and sculpture. Having seen all important areas of Ajmer Sharif we came back to our destination at the grand bungalow of doctor Bhawna and her husband doctor Anil Kumar. Doctor Anil Kumar and his son also came back to their bungalow in the meantime.

There is a dominantly visible Jain Mandir on top of a hill in the western direction of Ajmer city situated on the Jaypur road. Doctor Bhawna took us there after sunset. The Jain Complex is spread over many square kilometers of lush green area where most attractive wonders of the world are found. A huge multi-storied grand Jain Mandir has been built costing millions of dollars. This is a unique masterpiece of art and sculpture.

The vast lush green park of this elegant Jain Centre has been very well designed by planting very rare beautiful plants in the most systematic fashion.

 After chatting for sometime we all had the most delicious dinner. After saying our night prayer we had a very sound sleep. Many interesting dreams were seen during our sound sleep. We had been very busy in seeing the holy city of Ajmer Sharif for which we could not get visit visa during our first travel to India in 2007. We were very fortunate to get the visit visa this time and we really enjoyed our journey to the holy shrine of Ajmer Sharif.

OUR DEPARTURE FROM AJMER SHARIF ON 24^th OF NOVEMBER 2012:

It was our third day in Ajmer Sharif. Today in the afternoon, we had to depart from Ajmer Sharif for New Delhi railway station by Shatabdi Express train which leaves Ajmer Sharif at 03:45 pm and reaches New Delhi railway station at 11:00 pm. We had some photography of the beautiful bungalow of lady doctor Bhawna. We took our lunch at about two O’clock in the afternoon. After saying our noon prayers we started our return journey to catch the Shatabdi Express train in time. At three O’clock in the afternoon we left our second destination and our respected hosts took us to the Ajmer railway station where we had to wait for a few minutes because the rail compartment of our reserved seats was still closed. As soon as the compartment was opened we occupied our comfortable seats. Shatabdi Express train took its start at the scheduled time of departure. Very close to our seats was sitting a very hansom American young man. Next to him was sitting his beautiful sister. They were both busy in playing video games and reading fiction. They had no interest in the other world around them.

The train had hardly taken its start when the cold drinks and dry fruits were served to the train passengers. After some time snacks were served with hot coffee and fresh fruits. After a few minutes the railway station of Kishangarh came where the train stopped for two minutes. Kishangarh is located at a distance of thirty kilometers from Ajmer Sharif. The train again started moving after a stop of two minutes. On both sides of the railway track were scattered vast fields of wheat. Ponds of water were also seen at some intervals. Mud and brick houses were also seen scattered here and there. Large villages also appeared at longer intervals. There were no gardens seen anywhere along the railway track. Grand Mandirs were seen on top of muddy hills. Large herds of cows, buffalos and very healthy oxen were also seen in the open.

When we reached Jaypur city which is the provincial capital of Rajasthan it was quite dark outside the train. Our train stopped at Jaypur railway station for about ten minutes. I went out and saw the large railway station. Many passengers got down and some new passengers boarded the train here. I got into the train when it whistled. As soon as the train started we were served with dinner.  The train stopped at many important stations. Finally we reached New Delhi railway station at eleven O’clock of night and it was almost mid night when our hosts welcomed us on the railway platform where our train had finally stopped. They took our luggage and put it in their Bolero jeep which moved over very busy roads of Delhi. Many bazaars and markets were still open in New Delhi. The tall buildings were illuminated very prominently. We were taken to a very beautiful farm house located in a very posh area of Delhi called NOIDA and New NOIDA. But the water pumping motor of the farmhouse had been burnt today due to some short circuit in the power line feeding the pumping motor. Drinking water for our dinner had been brought from the adjoining farmhouse and then we had our dinner hurriedly. We were taken to another place in New Delhi where we rested for sometime. The sun rose in the meantime and we had to travel to our third destination at my native village of Dhanauree located in tehsil Samana district Patiala where I was born before the partition of India and Pakistan in 1947.

OUR DEPARTURE FROM DELHI TO MY BIRTH PLACE AT VILLAGE DHANAUREE  NEAR SAMANA CITY IN PATIALA DISTRICT ON 25^th OF NOVEMBER 2012 (SUNDAY) :

Our driver, Mr. Manooj, started the journey along the G.T. road. We wanted to see some important places of New Delhi before our departure to Patiala but our driver, Mr. Manuj had no knowledge of any important places at Delhi. Hence we had no choice except to go straight to our village named Dhanauree located in the district of Patiala near Samana city. On our way to Sonipat came the grand Akhshardham Mandir of great reputation. Dhanauri village where I had been born six years before partition of India was our last and third destination of our visit visa where we had to stay before returning to Pakistan.

Hence our third and last destination in India was at my birthplace.

 We had passed through New Delhi while going to our first destination at village Isapur /Yousufpur located in district Ghaziabad of Utter Pardesh. We had also passed through Delhi for the second time while going to Ajmer Sharif by SHATABDI EXPRESS train going from railway station of New Delhi. On our return from Ajmer Sharif we again passed through Delhi for the third time. It was now fourth time when we were leaving Delhi for going to our final destination at my birthplace at our village called Dhanauree which is located in district Patiala of Indian Punjab. We had hardly seen any important places in Delhi so far. I requested our driver Mr. Manooj Kumar to show us some important places of Delhi on our way while going to Patiala but he refused to do so saying that he had no knowledge of Delhi cosmopolitan city. This had annoyed me much and I had rebuked him assuming that he was telling lies to deprive us from visiting historic places of Delhi. I controlled my emotions of deprivation and we proceeded towards Panipat city on our way to Patiala city from where we had to go to our village Dhanauree which is located five kilometers in the east of Samana city. Dhanauree is my birthplace where I had been born before the partition of India in 1947 when we migrated to Pakistan. In fact the main motive of travelling to India for the second time was the extreme desire of seeing our birth places once again. This natural desire of all humans for seeing their birth places cannot be suppressed despite our best efforts.

.

We crossed Sonipat and reached Panipat city where we wanted to visit, for a very short time, the famous Dargah of Muslim saint Hazrat Boo Ali Shah Qalandar. We roamed through the zigzag streets of old Panipat city and finally found the holy shrine. At the gate of the holy shrine on the inner left side is the grave of our famous poet named Iltaf Hussain Hali. We spent only a few minutes praying at the graves of Iltaf Hussain Hali and Hazrat Boo Ali Shah Qalandar. We restarted our journey towards my birthplace at village Dhanauree located in Patiala district at a distance of five kilometer in the eastern direction of Samana city. After crossing Karnal city we stopped at a rural restaurant where we had our delicious lunch. After taking lunch and tea we again started our journey to our third destination in India located at my birthplace village called Dhanauree. We crossed Ambala cantonment and turned left towards Patiala city from Rajpura town. Patiala city is at about twenty six kilometers from Rajpura town. Within half an hour we crossed Patiala city and finally we reached Samana city half an hour before sunset. We straight away went to the famous shop of auto spares shop on Ghagha road of Samana city. This shop belongs to the family members of Sarpanch Dhanauri Sardar Gurcheet Singh S/O Baba Santok Singh and to the sons of Sardar Harbhinder Singh. Sardar Shamsher Singh was sitting on the counter when we reached their shop.

We wanted that our driver and his companion Mr. Poneet should stay with us at our village but they were very anxious to return to participate in a famous Hindu fair held at Kishtwar which is situated on the banks of holy Ganga River. We allowed them to return when they insisted repeatedly. Before departing us they were warmly thanked and served with tea and snacks. We put our luggage at the large auto spares shop named Shere- Punjab which jointly belongs to the family of Sarpanch Dhanauree, Sardar Gurcheet Singh and his brothers. After some time, we were taken to our village Dhanauree where we were to stay at the Namdharee Farmhouse for the rest of our visa period in India.

We met all the family members of Baba Santok Singh and his sons. Baba Sank Singh had become weaker due to aging effect as he was now completing his century of golden age. He was very active when we came here five years back. Small children had now grown into young beautiful boys and girls. Everybody had changed bodily in some way but their basic features, characteristics, tones and modes of expression did not change drastically. They all were the same internally. Some changes had taken place in the shape and size of bungalows. Bungalow of Sardar Atar Singh was under construction five years ago but now it had been completed into a grand residential abode. We stayed in his splendid bungalow for the entire period of twelve days we spent at our final destination at the Namdhari farmhouse of Dhanauree village.

All the family members of our hosts at the farmhouse gathered to greet us. It was a sort of jovial fair. Our talks continued for hours together after our delicious dinner. Everybody was asking many questions about us and our family members. We were asking many questions from each one of them. Our dialogues continued till midnight. We were extremely tired. I requested them to disperse now so that we could sleep after saying our evening and night prayers. Reluctantly they left us in our bed room where we had a very sound sleep after offering our prayers.

OUR ACTIVITIES ON 26^th OF NOVEMBER2012 (Monday):

We got up early before sunrise and said our morning prayers. In the meantime our bed tea with dry fruits and salty refreshments was placed on our side tables which we enjoyed with great pleasure while talking about our remaining stay in India. We had to go to the birthplace of my wife at Chintanwala town located in the western direction at about thirty kilometers. Five years ago when we went there we could not trace the house where my wife had been born. She was only three years old when the partition took place in 1947. Her father, uncle and many other family members were mercilessly murdered by the Indian army and Sikhs of the surrounding area. My wife escaped death as she had been buried under the heap of dead bodies killed by the Indian army.

After taking our breakfast Baba Santok Singh took me to the adjoining fields of wheat and peas scattered over many kilometers. We walked and walked continuously for about one hour and reached the shrine of Saint Nathu Shah situated at the side of asphalted road going from Guru Gobind Model School and College to the Namdharee farm house. I was very happy to see a regular room built on the grave of our Muslim saint which was open when we came here five years ago.

 Sikhs and Hindus offer milk pots every day on the graves of Muslim saints according to their belief that it increases the daily produce of milk from their milking cattle. Stray dogs used to drink the offered milk and make the graves dirty with their filth. I had requested Baba Santok Singh five years ago to make boundary walls with proper lockable doors to avoid creation of filth by the stray dogs on the graves of the Muslim saints. I was extremely glad that Baba Santok Singh and the neighbors of other Muslim shrines constructed regular rooms over the graves and this keeps them clean and secure from other hazards. I saw numerous pictures of Hindu and Sikh saints hung on the inner side of the walls of Muslim shrines. I also witnessed that numerous Sikhs and Hindus when they visit these graves of the Muslim saints they bow on earth as if they are worshiping them. I repeatedly told them at different Muslim shrines that this is called ‘shirk’ (equating the statues to God Almighty who is alone) in Islam and it is totally prohibited. I was very glad that my sermons were successful and the wrong habit of bowing was discarded by the Hindu and Sikh visitors. The milk pots are kept outside the Muslim shrines which are now invariably locked. I wanted to make the payment for the construction costs of the regular rooms over the graves of the Muslim shrines but they refused to take any money from me. This showed great regard for us and for the sacred graves of our Muslim shrines. I sincerely thanked them for this noble act.

 I must say that mutual dialogues and understanding creates incredible miracles. Many social problems among different sects and religions are caused by either total lack of mutual communications or improper communications. We create conflicting situations which can be often avoided through amicable mutual communications and understanding.

We came back and had wonderful breakfast. After taking rest I again went out to see our wells which have been discarded now and replaced by modern tube-wells having no electric bills whatsoever in the Punjab province of India. Other provinces are fighting to get the same concession for their tube-wells but their continued protests have brought no fruit so far. I walked to the Guru Gobind Model College where previously I had delivered many lectures and sermons in the main assembly and numerous classes. The Principal and other teachers requested me to do the same this time as well. I promised saying that I would come some other time for this purpose.

I came back absorbed in my inner thoughts and recapitulating my old memories of the past. Suddenly two huge dogs attacked me near our Muslim shrine of Nathu Shah. Fortunately a gentleman spraying pea fields with artificial manure came to my rescue very promptly. I was extremely terrified as a similar attack had occurred in Pakistan about one year ago at the house of my friend Sh. Mohammad Jahangir where we had gone along with other family members on a dinner. The official dog of my nephew Mr. Khurram Rasheed (who is an S.P.) had bitten me at many limbs of my body. I had to undergo a long and costly treatment for the seriously bleeding wounds on my body. I had stopped going to their house due to the sad incident which has drastically changed my psychology since then. People say that a man bitten once by a dog gets terrified throughout his life. I say on oath that this is absolutely true.

On my reaching the farm house I stopped outside near the field of numerous lush green vegetables grown for the personal use of the families. I remembered my own vegetables grown by me in my kitchen garden. I also thought of taking the seeds of some good quality vegetables and grains. Many local people of the area repeatedly asked me if I could provide them with some best quality seeds of Basmati rice from Pakistan. I said yes of course if the governments of Pakistan and India have no objection to this. I telephonically talked to my nephew Ch. Mohammad Afzal who is a very talented farmer of our village called Kot Asaysh near Qila Deedar Singh of Gujranwala district. He said that anyone can collect best quality basmati rice seeds without any cost at all. Some Sikh Yatries from India were in Pakistan to celebrate the birth day of Guru Nanak Singh. Their names were dictated to Mr. Afzal Chaudry for delivering best quality basmati rice seeds as and when they con tact him. We must exchange persons from all walks of life in India and Pakistan for man to man contacts. We must also help each other in different forms of mutual needs. This would create more harmonious atmosphere for building and enhancing mutual confidence. I hope that this serene advice of mine would be soon implemented by both the governments. I shall be looking forward for an early implementation of my proposals. Good quality seeds and plants must be exchanged freely without any restrictions. This would create an immense good will among us.

 I came back when my legs refused to carry me further although I did not feel like going back to the farmhouse where we were residing. I abluted myself and offered my noon prayers. Our delicious lunch was ready. After taking lunch we took rest for two hours. I t was the time of evening tea and our hosts were anxiously waiting for us to join them on the dining table. After taking evening tea and dry fruits we became very fresh. I requested my wife to accompany me to our village of Dhanauree so that we could have a hurried round of the old village where I had been born. She politely refused saying that she would prefer talking to the ladies and children at home. So I alone walked to my old house which has now .been converted into a grand bungalow. No male person was at our old house except a young Sikh lady called Jasbeer Kaur who invited me into the house when I was somewhat reluctant. In the meantime her neighbors also joined us. They had recognized me as we had come here to see our old streets and houses five years ago. Her father-in law had died in the meantime and her husband was far away on some personal errand. We sat together on the costly sofas and talked for about half an hour. They wanted to serve me with hot tea and dry fruits but I was already full. On much insistence I had to take a glass of hot condensed milk which was extremely tasty. Each Sikh family has many milking cows and buffalos. Proverbially saying the canals of milk are flowing in each house. Instead of tea, milk is invariably offered to the guests. After a hurried visit of my old village I came back to Namdhari farmhouse which is at about three kilometers in the north of village Dhanauree. Our hosts were anxiously waiting for me as they were afraid of the wild stray dogs which could attack me. I reassured them that I could manage them and hence they must not worry about me. But they very vehemently asked me not to go out alone.   I promised to do so in future. But it was not possible for me to abide by my promise as the very purpose of our travel was to see as much as was possible of India and its fields, houses, people, plants, hills, mountains, rivers and jungles etc. It was not possible for them to spare enough time for me as they were busy in attending to their own affairs. I explained this to which they agreed very reluctantly.

After saying our evening and night prayers we relaxed for half an hour. All the family members of our respected hosts gathered again to listen to us about Pakistan and India. We were happy to talk to them and we replied to their complex questions as per our best belief and knowledge. Their questions had no end till we became tired. We requested to disperse and leave the remaining questions to be answered in the next session of next day. They reluctantly conceded to our request and after that we took our delicious dinner. After saying our night prayers we slept very soundly. Before going to sleep I recapitulated my visit of today to many fields, shrines, streets and houses of our village Dhanauree. I realized that I missed many essential places which must be visited next day.

OUR ACTIVITIES ON 27^th OF NOVEMBER 2012 (Tuesday):

We woke up early in the morning and after saying our morning prayers we took rest for another one hour. We were called by our respected hosts to take our breakfast. After taking our breakfast we had to visit Sardar Jagtal Singh who is the father in-law of Sardar Gagan Singh, the eldest son of Sardar Gurcheet Singh, Sarpanch of Dhanauree. Sardar Gurcheet Singh had to take us to Nizam Aliwala village where Sardar Jagtal Singh lives in a grand bungalow surrounded by lush green fields of wheat and peas. Sardar Gurcheet Singh became busy in some of his urgent administrative assignments and we had to wait for him. He came at about midday to take us to Nizam Aliwala village which is located at a distance of three kilometers from our village of Dhanauree in the eastern direction. They received us with great warmth and zeal. Very highly educated and newly wed charming daughter of Jagtal Singh had accompanied us to the grand bungalow of her father located in the green fields of Nizam Aliwala. She was living with her in-laws at the Namdharee farmhouse of Danauree. She had recently returned from Australia where she helped her newly wed husband, Sardar Gagan Singh who is the eldest son of Sarpanch of Dhanauree. She had been topping in all of her examinations till she finally won a gold medal in her M.B.A. examination. Her name is Parvinder Kaur. She is extremely bright in all fields of human aspects. I designated her as a ‘pride of Nizam Aliwala’. God has been very generous in bestowing upon her heaps of human beauty and grace. We had hardly seated ourselves when the special gestures of extreme entertainment started. Cousion of Parvindar Kaur is studying in her plus one class which means in the eleventh class as per our terminology. She is very active and extra smart. She exhausted us with her unending attacks of entertainment. Her name is Navneet Kaur We wanted to take leave of our hosts at Nizam Aliwala which is also called THEIRI by the local natives. It consumed more than two hours of our scarce time in getting their permission to leave them for going ahead to see other adjoining villages. We hurriedly visited Malikwal, Bibipur, Daba, Chaba, Gheora, Ratta Khera, Shadipur, Usmsmanpur, Ratankheri, Marori, Azeemgarh,  Badanpur and Kamaspur etc.

At Shadipur we especially went to the old mosque where our only spiritual teacher, Maulvi Mohammad Sharif postman had opened an Islamic School to teach holy Quraan and Urdu books. There was no school in any other village of our area. He used to spend whole of his salary to feed his poor students whom he loved from the core of his heart. The old mosque was deserted completely and many animals like cows and buffalos had heaped the lawn with their filth. The roofed room was locked and was in a very shabby condition. A tall hansom Sikh vanished on seeing us entering the old mosque where now he lived along with his cattle. We assured him that we did not mean any harm to him or to his family. We informed him that we had come from Pakistan to visit Shadipur village in general and the old mosque in particular. We told him that the village of Shadipur was the village where my mother had been born long ago before the partition of India. I had attended the Islamic School of Shadipur for a few months perhaps for the fun and not for any serious studies because I was too small to learn anything.

The Sardarji who was occupying the old mosque told us that a serious dispute was going on in the civil court as to which sect of Sikhs is legally entitled to own the mosque. It came to my knowledge for the first time in my life that Hindus and Sikhs also have many sects who are fighting with one another. Each sect considers itself to be on the right path whereas all other sects are considered bogus. This sectarian grouping and conflict is prevailing in Muslims too. Legal fights and prolonged litigations are also prevalent in all religions among different sects. This is unfortunate as it destroys the very spirit of any religion which is primarily for the harmony among people and not for creation of any hatred. There seem no serious efforts for the unification and creation of harmony among various religions of the globe. The sense of amicable co-existence is totally missing.

                                                        

A young son of the Sardarji occupying the old mosque of Shadipur was severely chained on a chair and tied to the mosque window of the front wall. He was twisting his head on his right and left and shrieking in great pain. Sardarji told us that he is mentally deranged and retarded. He cannot be let free due to possible damage he can cause to others. His condition was pathetic. I requested my host to tell Sardarji for not filling the mosque lawn with the waste and filth of his cattle. Our host told him politely in dim tones and informed later that he had drawn the attention of the Sardarji at the pathetic condition of his son which could possibly be due to profaning the mosque.

The ablution place and the adjoining old well had been demolished making the vacated land as kitchen garden where he had grown all types of vegetables, fruits and even sugarcane for his family consumption. We had very little time at our disposal but I did not feel like leaving the mosque which had many strange old memories of my childhood. My grand maternal mother used to love me very passionately. My maternal uncles also attached much importance to me and my education but I myself had no concept of getting education due to perhaps my being too young. Most of the old styled simple houses have been converted into grand bungalows. The mud streets have been asphalted. Good asphalted roads have been built around the entire village of Shadipur. The facilities of electricity, water supply, drainage system and other amenities of life are now abundantly available. This pattern of village life is not only valid for Shadipur village but it is true for other villages of Punjab too. Eastern Punjab has immensely developed.

.

Getting permission from the Sardarji we moved ahead to have a round of other nearby villages. Old dirty pond located in front of the house of Ch. Wazeer Ali has been extended much. Old styled streets and houses have been replaced by new ones. Roads going to Kamaspur and Usmanpur have been asphalted. The old graveyard of Muslims has been demolished except a small fortification containing the grave of a Muslim saint. The old graveyard of Shadipur Muslims has been demolished and converted into agricultural fields. There are two Gurdowaras in the village of Shadipur but no high schools or colleges were seen for boys or girls.

We moved ahead towards Usmanpur village where Ch. Ali Hassan and his younger brother late Mr. Farzand Ali were born before partition of India in 1947. Their old well near the village pond has been replaced by new tube-wells. More bungalows have been constructed near the pond. There is a lot of expansion going on. Various development works are in progress. Many people were moving here and there. Due to lack of time we moved ahead towards Ratankheri which is at about two kilometers from Usmanpur in the southern direction. Many new grand bungalows were seen in the village with asphalted roads. The village has expanded much after partition of India.

After Ratankheri we turned right in the western direction. After moving ahead along very zigzag narrow roads we travelled a distance of three kilometers for reaching the Marori village. There was a newly built grand Gurdowara before the village started. Residents of the village Marori came out of their village and very carefully watched us from a distance. I could not understand the peculiar reaction of the local residents on our arrival there. Sarpanch Gurccheet Singh explained it in detail. He told me that each house of Marori village has a secret wine factory totally concealed from strangers. Each bottle of wine is sold at one tenth of the market price. All agencies of police and armed wings have done their best to control the illegal production of different wines here but their continued efforts have utterly failed. When the village is attacked by police or any other agency the residents of the village flee and hide in the adjacent dense jungles of willows. When the raiding police or any other agency encircles the entire village nothing is recovered. This game of hide and seek is going on since many years. Big factories for the production of different brands of wine in India are being damaged due to very cheap products of Marori wines which resemble in shape and packing to the costly wines but are very cheap.

We met local people and talked to them giving the complete assurance that we did not mean any harm to them. We had some photography with local people. Sarpach Sardar Gurjchet Singh told about us that we were visitors from Pakistan. We told the residents of Marori that our close relative Ch. Sharif Arrain and our friend Ch. Raham Deen lived here in Marori before partition of India but there was none who knew them. They showed complete ignorance. The sun was about to set hence we begged permission from the residents of Marori village who were insisting to take tea with them. We retraced our way back to Ratankheri , Usmanpur,  Shadipur, Kamaspur and Badanpur reaching finally our native village Dhanaauree. Before leaving Marori village we had some photography with local people. It had been a very hectic tour of the villages surrounding our Dhanauree village. When we came back to the Namdhare farmhouse at Dhanauree we were told that people at Kherki village are waiting for our participation in the engagement ceremony of Sardar Mukhtiar Singh’s daughter. Sardar Mukhtiar Singh is the real cousin of Sardar Atar Singh and Sardar Gurcheet Singh. Father of Sardar Mukhtiar Singh named Sardar Pyara Singh was the real brother of Baba Santok Singh and Sardar Harbhinder Singh. We took some rest for half an hour and then departed from Namdharee farmhouse at Dhanauree to the Namdhari  FarmHouse at Kherki village.

Mukhtiar Singh and his family members were very anxiously waiting for us.  There was a lot of gathering although we had been told that a very simple function was going to be held. We met some new strangers who were properly introduced to us. We had good talk for half an hour and in the meantime a delicious dinner was served. After our dinner some photography session started.  All of a sudden a group of young charming Sikh girls stood up and started dancing. The rhythms of music and dancing were very loud. The zeal and enthusiasm of the dancing girls was enchanting. The floor of the house seemed vibrating as if an earthquake had befallen. The loud thumping of the dancing legs and loud rhythmic tones of the music made everyone intoxicated. The charming dancing girls were very young college and university students. They were perspiring severely but there seemed no fatigue at all on their faces although more than one hour had elapsed.

All the men had gathered in the adjacent drawing room. They asked me very complex questions to which I could not reply in simple straightforward words. All of them wanted me to arrange best quality basmati rice seeds from Pakistan. I contacted my nephew Mr. Afzal Chaudry and made him to talk to them on phone. He was ready to supply best quality basmati seeds but he did not know how to send them to India. Some Sikh visitors were in Pakistan participating in the birthday function of Baba Guru Nanak. I requested my hosts to ask their relations to contact Mr. Afzal for arranging best quality basmati seeds. His telephonic contact number was also given to them.

Parents of Mr. M. D. Shad advocate belonged to Kherki village. His father Ch. Mohammad Ali was a famous wrestler of his time before partition of India in 1947. I asked Mr. Mukhtiar Singh to talk to M.D. Shad on phone. Many others also talked to him asking the details of his forefathers. All were very happy after making long calls to Mr. M.D. Shad. Some of the old people of Kherki village knew the forefathers of M.D. Shad.

I wanted to get permission for going back to Dhanauree where I had to sleep for the night. I suddenly got up and came out of drawing room. The charming college and university students were still dancing and singing some special exciting songs. Apologizing from all of them I interrupted the dancing girls begging their permission to leave the function and go back to Namdharee farmhouse at Dhanauree village. Some of dancing girls dragged me inside their dancing group. They asked me to dance and sing with them. I had to regret them very politely saying that I neither knew dancing nor singing. After a lot of struggle I got myself released from their tight grip. I immediately requested Mr. Atar Singh to take us to Dhanauree where we wished to sleep. Not Mr. Atar Singh but his brother Gurcheet Singh took us back to Namdharee farmhouse of Dhanauri where we slept without any delay. All night I had been haunted by the terrific dance and music of Sikh girls. Many dreams of being dragged by the dancing Sikh girls terrified me. I awoke many times at night and slept again dispelling my fears of dragging.

OUR VISIT OF CHINTANWALA TOWN TO FIND THE HOUSE OF MY WIFE ON 28^th OF NOVEMBER (Wednesday):

It was an important day as we had to find the house of my wife in Chintanwala. During our last visit of India five years ago we had tried our best twice for many hours together to find the house where the parents of my wife lived before partition. We had failed and it had made our first visit of India somewhat bitter. We were determined this time to search for and find the house of my wife where she had been born three years before the partition of India in1947. Our hosts at the farmhouse of Dhanauri village had assured us that they would certainly find the old house of my wife at Chintanwala town.

My wife was a little angry that we did not go straight to Chintanwala as we did in our last tour five years ago in 2007. She became very happy to learn that we are going there the next day. After taking our breakfast we departed for Chintanwal with Baba Santok Singh, Atar Singh, Jagtal Singh, my wife, wife of Atar Singh, Parwinder Kaur, who is also the daughter-in-law of Sarpanch Gurcheet Singh. We adopted the route via Samana city, Bhawanigarh town, Nabha city and then reached Chintanwala town. Mr. Atar Singh took us directly to the house of Sarpanch Chintanwala who was not at home but his brother was. He greeted us with great enthusiasm and opened his drawing room for us. After sitting there we told him about our agenda for coming to Chintanwala town many times before but without any success for finding the house of my wife. He listened to us very attentively and called a very old man who was about eighteen years old at the time of partition in 1947. He had very sharp memory. He remembered all essential details of this town of Chintanwal at and before partition. After taking tea and some dry fruits we started our search under the guidance of the old man. He took us to a particular place. There was the boundary of a demolished mosque and a very huge neem tree near the old well close to the gate of the demolished mosque. He then took us to the rear of the mosque in the west where the house of my wife was located most of which had recently been demolished and replaced by a grand bungalow. Two old rooms still existed with old styled small Mughal bricks, wooden roofs and arcs. All these characteristic features of this house matched with that of the old house of my wife. After seeing the still existing two rooms, my wife agreed that it was indeed her own old house. We were all very happy since we had finally found the house of my wife which could not be traced earlier despite our repeated efforts. Present owner of the house was a very nice Sikh who invited us all on a cup of tea. We all agreed to this good offer. The wife of the Sikh hurriedly prepared Pakoras and brought home-made sweets for us. We all enjoyed the tea and spicy pakoras along with sweets. Dozens of the local residents of Chintanwala town had joined us in our search of the old house of my wife.

 At our departure from Chintanwala town the old man who had guided us to the house of my wife offered twenty rupees to my wife who accepted this boon with extreme gratitude. After expressing our sincere gratitude to all of them we begged their permission to go ahead. We moved towards Maler kotla city where the camp of Muslim refugees had remained for many months before they were finally sent to Pakistan. Before reaching Maler Kotla via Bagrian town we were to cross Sirhind Canal where the caravan of my wife had been mercilessly massacred including her father, uncle, elder brother and other blood relations. She became very sad on seeing this unlucky place. We moved further to Maler Kotla city where we had fresh delicious juice of citrus at a road chowk near the railway crossing.

After passing the railway crossing we moved ahead towards a famous Gurdowara situated near Shergarh village. Present gaddinasheen (occupant) of this Sikh shrine is Professor Sukhveer Singh who is very highly educated and a very witty gentleman. He told us very terrific incidents of partition. This Gurdowara has been named after its founder Sardar Sadhuram. Baba Santok Singh narrated many useful quotations from the holy Granth and Professor Sukhveer Singh appreciated the depth of the lessons learnt from them. Charming Parvinder Kaur had been wittingly named as the girl of” Nizam Aliwala”. He showed great love and affection to her. At the end I asked some serious and complex questions from Professor Sukhvir Singh who after some thought replied very wittingly to all of my questions. He is indeed a very wise philosopher. He expressed the hope that we would soon meet again. After getting his permission we retraced our route for going back to Maler Kotla city where we straight away went to the famous and reportedly the largest Eidgah of Asia. It indeed is a masterpiece of art and structure. I and my wife offered our Zohar and Asar prayers together. After our prayers we took some photographs and met many local people.

After seeing the masterpiece of Art and structure called Eidgah of Maler Kotla city we retuned further to a very famous historic place where sixty six Sikh martyrs from namdhari sect were mercilessly killed by the English ruthless rulers of pre-liberated India through cruel gun firing. A museum has been constructed at this site of merciless killing to show the history of sacrifice by Sikh freedom fighters. A masterpiece of metallic structure as a memorial monument has also been erected at this site. The Administrator of this historic place entertained us with Chata which is a unique form of delicious tea mixture. After seeing the historic place where foundation of our freedom had been laid down by the sixty six Sikh freedom fighters we returned to Dhanauree where our delicious dinner was waiting for us. After taking dinner and saying our prayers we went to sleep as we were very tired.

OUR HURRIED VISIT OF LUDHIANA CITY TO SEE THE LOVELY DAUGHTER OF SARDAR GURCHEET SINGH ON 29^th OF NOVEMBER 20123 (Thursday):

It had been already decided that someday we would be taken to Ludhiana city where the lovely daughter of Sardar Gurcheet Singh had been married to an able advocate. Ludhiana is a very reputed industrial centre of India and a very large city. It is located on the G.T.road midway from Amritsar and New Delhi. We had been invited to attend the marriage ceremony of Sardar Gurjeet Singh’s daughter but we could not get the written invitation in time so that we could apply for the visit visa for this purpose. Hence we were unable to participate in her marriage party.

After our breakfast we started our journey along with Baba Santok Singh, wife of Atar Singh, my wife, Parwinder Kaur who is the daughter-in-law of Sarpanch Sardar Gurcheet Singh. We went to Ludhiana city via Bagrian town and Maler Kotla city. We bought some fruit for us and for the daughter of the Sarpanch. It took us about two hours to reach Ludhiana city where we spent about two hours. We took our lunch there and waited for the husband of Sarpanch’s daughter but he was perhaps too busy to meet us. We had lunch with his mother and offered our Zohar and Asar prayers. After taking fresh fruit plucked from their vast grand lawn we had delicious tea with dry fruits. After that we took their permission to leave them and come back to our destination via G.T. Road. We passed by the cities of Khanna and Sirhind Sharif and then turned right to go to Patiala which is at about twenty five kilometers from Sirhind Sharif. We reached Patiala city at about eight O’clock in the night. We stopped for half an hour at the grand flat of Shamsher Singh who is the real son of Baba Santok Singh. There we also met the son and daughter of late Sher Singh whose wife and children live together with the family of Shamsher Singh. They offered us delicious fruit cream. We also took tea with dry fruits and left their grand flat going back to Dhanauri farmhouse where our dinner was ready. After taking our dinner we offered our evening and night prayers. Then immediately we went to our beds as we were very tired due to an arduous tiring tour of many places.

WE PRAYED JUMA AND VISITED PANJPEER AND FAMILIES OF BALWEER SINGH AND BHOOPINDER SINGH AT SAMANA CITY ON 30^th OF NOV. 2012:

 Before sunrise, Mr. Atar Singh took me to Mavi Sanpanwali and Gajaywas Chatehra where their five acre wheat fields had been over-irrigated due to an unattended electric tube-well inundating the adjoining wheat fields of the neighbors too. After coming from their wheat fields we had our breakfast and then we went to meet Sardar Kartar Singh at his farmhouse near Rajla village. He was basking the sun and he greeted us warmly. We talked to him and his family members. His wife had recently died and we condoled over her untimely death. Sardar Kartar Singh is a great scholar. He has learnt by rote many parts of holy Quraan and poetry of Allama Mohammad Iqbal. He recited many poems of Sheikh Saadi in Persian language.

His son took us in his BOLERO jeep to Samana city where we met Dr. Tony in his clinic situated on the Post Office Road of Samana city. His talented cousin Sumti Sagar died last year. He was a very learned gentleman. We stayed at his home for a couple of days during our visit of India five years ago in 2007. We wanted to condole for his untimely death with his wife, two daughters and a son. Dr. Tony told us that they had sold their old house and have shifted to some other place. He sent with us a boy who took us to their big shop in the Dhaniram Bazar. We met the son of late Sumti Sagar and requested him to take us to his new house where his sisters and mother lived now. We went to the new house of Sumti Sagar’s wife who was busy in washing the clothes. Her daughter Lila was also there. We recalled the old sweet memories of my late friend for a long time.

It was Friday and I had to say my Juma (Friday noon) prayers in the mosque where collective prayers are offered by the Muslim community of the area. The servant of late Sumti Sagar took me to the mosque where I met many Muslims before and after the Juma prayers. We exchanged our views on numerous important topics. We also visited and prayed on the graves of many Muslims buried in the graves adjoining the Main Mosque where parents of our High Court Justice Babbar Hussain are also buried. Religious leader of the mosque met us at the house of Mr. Shahid Anwar and his brother Mastan. We exchanged our views on many issues. After sometime the mother of Shahid Anwar joined in our dialogues. Finally I bid them farewell and came back to the new house of Madam Shashi who is the widow of late Sumti Sagar. We had brought a dress suit for her younger daughter Bhawna who had gone to some other town on that day. After taking lunch with them we went to the adjoining market to do some shopping for our family members in Pakistan. Madam Lila who is the elder daughter of our late friend SUMTI SAGAR accompanied us to the market and helped us in the bargaining of some purchased articles. We waited for the arrival of our host Sardar Atar Singh.

Mr. Atar Singh came to take us to the house of Sardar Bhupinder Singh situated in the Partap Colony of Samana City where we had been invited on dinner. On the way we met the family of Sardar Balwir Singh who is holding an important post in the local police department. In our previous tour of India five years ago in 1947 he had advised us to go directly to the farmhouse of Sarpanch Dhanauree, Sardar Gurcheet Singh. He and his lovely wife insisted to take kheer (a very tasty dish made of milk and rice) and sweets with dry fruits. We had to agree to what they wanted us to do so that they become happy with us. We had lively talks with them for about half an hour.

After leaving Sardar Balweer Singh and his family we went to the grand bungalow of Sardar Bhupinder Singh whose wife is the real sister of the wife of Sardar Atar Singh. We had a long lively talk with the family members of Sardar Bhupinder Singh, his neighbor Pandit Lubhaya and Madam Sarbpreet Kaur who had joined us with her sweet kids on my specific request. She had presented a very nice book on “Sikh Sdhant” written by Baba Iqbal Singh during our last tour of India in 2007. She once again presented us many valuable books this time too. We first took tea with dry fruits and then we had a very delicious dinner. Baba Santok Singh had been with us throughout the day and he seemed to be very tired. We were ourselves very tired by now. Hence after getting permission from our hosts we left Samana city and came back to Dhanauri village. After saying our evening and night prayers together in the short form we went to our beds where we had very sound sleep at night.

 WE VISIT DARBAR OF MOJADDID ALIF SANI AT SIRHIND SHRIF AND ALSO ATTEND THE BURNING OF DEADBODY OF AN ELDERLY SIKH LADY AT BASI PATHANAN NEAR SIRHIND SHRIF ON 1^st OF DECEMBER 2012 (Saturday):

As per our scheduled program, we had to visit today the Sanaur village, Gurdowara Shaheedi at Sirhind Sharif and Darbar Hazrat Mojaddid Alif Sani. But suddenly an urgent information was received from village Qari of Sirsa Rania that some important guests are coming from there to the Namdhari farmhouse at Dhanauri for the engagement ceremony of Sardar Antar Singh who is the youngest son of Sarpanch Gurjeet Singh. Under these circumstances our hosts could not leave their homes as they had to receive their important guests to celebrate the engagement ceremony of Sardar Antar Singh.

After taking our breakfast we relaxed on our beds for sometime and after taking some rest I went out of the bungalow of Sardar Atar Singh where he was planting mango trees with the help of some agricultural experts who had come there with a large number of good quality fruit plants brought from the Agriculture Research Centre of  Lucknow.  Some hot discussion was going on when I joined them suddenly. I asked them many complex questions to which they had no direct answers. A lively discussion started between me and them. They very attentively listened to my observations regarding fruit plants in India and how they should be improved further. They all agreed to my recommendations.

        I and my wife (Second and third from left) meet Mr. Mahaveer Singh (Second from right) and his wife at their house in village Isapur of Disrtict Ghaziabad of Utter Pardesh.

The fruit trees brought by the experts of Lukhnow Agricultural Research Centre included all varieties of common fruits and each fruit plant had a cost of two hundred fifty rupees. After prolonged discussions with the agricultural experts I moved towards the shrine of Baba Nathu Shah I prayed fatiha. There were many pictures of Hindu and Sikh saints hung on the inner walls of the shrine. I had requested them to remove these pictures from the Muslim shrine but no action had been taken so far. It pained me much.

I moved further and went into the Model College of Dhanauri where boys and girls study together. The Co-principal of the Model College, Mr. Harsimran Singh greeted me very warmly. We had met before in 2007 during our first travel to India. He offered me a simple cup of tea and we talked for about one hour on many topics relating to the development of their Model College. I gave many suggestions for the improvement of his model college and he very kindly agreed to all of them. I also met a talented teacher named Rajwinder Singh of Gheora village who told me many interesting things. It was the sports day and the volley ball game was going on with loud applause and shrieks. Mr. Harsimran stopped all games immediately and gathered all of his teachers and students at one place asking me to address them. I had to address them although I was not properly prepared for this sudden event. A proper stage had been promptly created with the mike and other paraphernalia. All the students were seated in front on the floor whereas all the teachers were seated at their backs on the chairs. The Principal seated himself besides me.

First of all I very briefly introduced myself. Then I told them what is education and how it should be obtained. I stressed on vocational education emphasizing on the importance of expertise and specialization. I briefly told the students how to choose their professions based on the inherent aptitudes. I also told them briefly as to what the modern challenges of life are and how best we can meet them. I told them the difference between good and bad habits and what values should be preferred in our short life. My lecture exceeded for more than one hour and finally I thanked them all for giving an opportunity of talking to them. They all wanted that I should take their respective classes for short periods of time as I had done earlier during our last visit five years ago. But I had no time for that and I apologized. I, however, promised to try for sparing some time to visit the Model College again if possible. They thanked me again and I left the Model College without any further delay. I loved this model college of Dhanauri as it belonged to my native village.

 Leaving the Model College I went to the nearby shrine of Hazrat Bakhay Shah at a distance of one furlong from the Model College in the south direction. I prayed there for half an hour and recollected my old sweet memories of my childhood when my uncle Ch. Mohammad Yousuf used to bring me here each Thursday night to pray in the adjoining mosque which has been destroyed now. There was a well near the mosque which has been filled with earth and the adjoining dense jungle has also been removed. I remained absorbed in my old recollections for more than half an hour. I took some photographs and left the shrine. I came to the Mavi Sanpanwali-Dhanauree Road and moved towards our old village for about one furlong when a Sardarji and his wife came out of their grand bungalow. Initially I did not recognize them from the road but when they came vey near to me I found them to be the daughter of late Sardar Pyara Singh named Manjeet Kaur and her husband Harjander Singh. They took me inside their grand bungalow where I was served with hot milk and dry fruits. I requested them to call Sardar Awtar Singhwho is their neighbor and who had taken us to Chintanwala during our first travel to India. Many people of the surrounding farmhouses also joined us.

In the meantime Mr. Atar Singh Singh came there in his Bolero jeep and took us to their Gurdowara at Dhanauree village which has been constructed at the demolished mosque of our old village. We had some photography there and came out of the Gurdowara of Dhanauri. We saw our old streets and houses most of which have been replaced by new ones. We talked to the occupants of our old houses.

Sardar Atar Singh received an urgent telephone call to inform us that the guests from village Qari of Sirsa Rania have arrived at the Namdharee farmhouse and we have to welcome them there immediately. We therefore rushed back to Namdhari farmhouse and greeted the honorable guests. We had detailed talks with the guests who were new to us. After about one hour the dinner was served to all of us including the guests from Sirsa Rania. We took their permission and came to our bed rooms where we offered our night prayers and then slept very soundly.

WE VISIT DARGAH OF HAZRAT MOJADDID ALIF SANI AT SIRHIND SHARIF AND ATTENDDED THE BURNING OF DEAD BODY OF AN OLD SIKH LADY AT BASI PATHANAN ON 2nd OF DECEMBER 2012 (Sunday):

We woke up early to offer our morning prayers when it was informed to us that the mother-in-law of the daughter of Sardar Harbhiner Singh has died at Basi Phatanan town which is located ten kilometers ahead of Sirhind Sharif in the north eastern direction. We all had to go there to attend the “SASKAR” which is burning ceremony of the dead body. The time for the burning of the dead body had been fixed at ten O’clock in the morning of today. All adults took their early start but were delayed as we had to go with Sarpanch Sardar Gurjeet Singh who was not feeling well. We hurriedly went to Sirhind Sharif and just in front of the shrine of Mojaddid Alif Sani Sardar Gurjeet Singh stopped his car. His wife had to go to the wash room located in their Dharamshala situated nearby on the other side of the road.

I very promptly got out of the car and entered the Dargah of Hazrat Mojaddid Alif Sani fearing that this might be the only chance to see it. After about ten minutes I went back to our car where they were very anxiously waiting for my return. We again started our journey towards Basi Pathanan where we had to attend the ceremony of burning the corpse of the late dead body of the old Sikh lady. We reached there in ten minutes and it was learnt that they already taken the dead body to their SHAMSHANGHAT where ceremony of burning would take place. We hurriedly went there and found that a large crowd of men and women had gathered there. After some time a heap of wooden piles was arranged and the dead body was placed in the centre of it. Then some dry grass was placed on the wooden piles. Then some small drums of desi ghee were poured on the wooden pile and then the fire was lit. The flames of the huge fire raised ten to fifteen feet high in the sky and a very peculiar smell of flesh burning scattered everywhere.

We had seen such burning ceremonies in the India picture many times but we thought that this was a dramatic presentation and nothing of this sort actually happens anywhere on earth. When we saw this terrific scene through our own eyes we became very sad. A religious Hindu or Sikh leader was reciting some verses which could not be understood by us. When the burning wood subsided many kilos of sugar were poured on it and the dim flames again rose to sky.  This horrible scene was watched by all of us for more than half an hour. The mob then dispersed and we all went to the house of the dead lady where her blood relations had gathered. Simple lunch was served to all the participants of burning ceremony. After that the participants dispersed going back to their homes.

We retraced our journey and came back to the shrine of Hazrat Mojaddid Alif Sani. Sardar Gurjeet Singh stopped his car at the main gate of the shrine and I, my wife and the wife of Sardar Gurjeet Singh went into the Dargah of the holy Muslim saint. I and my wife first of all went to the adjoining mosque where we prayed our Zohar and Asar prayers together. Then we went into the grave room of the saint where many visitors were silently praying. We also remained absorbed in the prayers. I asked a gentleman how and where I could meet the honorable incharge of the shrine. He told me in low tones that I could meet him right at the grave. He had pointed his finger to the bearded gentleman who was reciting holy Quraan next to me. His name was Sahibzada Syed Mohammad Zobair Mojaddadi. He was a very nicely built hansom gentleman of about forty years. I had very politely requested his name and had closed the holy Quraan and attended to me. I told him that I and my wife have come from Pakistan on a visit to India after five years. We had visited this shrine during our last tour five years ago when we had met the gaddinasheen (incharge) of this shrine whose good name was Syed Mohammad Sadiq Raza. He told us that he is not available at present. We came out of the hly grave room where many others were reciting holy Quraan. We had a very interesting talk on numerous issues of the Muslims in general and the pitiable condition of the Indian Muslims in general. He told me many bitter facts which he asked me not to write in my travelogue. We were busy in our talks and my wife was reminding me repeatedly to go back to our car where Sardar Gurjeet was very angrily waiting for us. Reluctantly I got the permission of Syed Zobair Sahib and apologized for the inordinate delay.

We again started our journey back towards Patiala city which was only twenty five kilometers away from there in the south. After about half an hour we came to the grand flat of Sardar Shamsher Singh at Patiala. We stayed there for half an hour and met the family of Shamsher Singh and the family members of his late brother Sher Singh. We had fruited ice cream and after that hot milk with dry fruits. Sardar Gurjeet was not feeling well. We therefore got their permission to return to Namdhari farmhouse where our hosts were waiting for our dinner. We took our delicious dinner and then we went to our bed room where we prayed our evening and night prayers together. After that we slept very soundly as we were very tired.

WE VISITTED GHARAM AND PANJPEER DARGAHS WITH GURCHEET SINGH ON 3^rd OF DECEMBER 2012 Monday):

We rose early before the sunrise and said our morning prayers. The bed tea with dry fruits came in the meantime. We talked about our completed tour of India so far. We also discussed about our remaining period of our visit visa for thirty days of which only five days were remaining. In the meantime the second wife Sarpanch Dhanauree came to us and told that someone wants to talk to me on phone. On attending the phone it was learnt that Sardar Gulcheet Singh and his father-in-law, Sardar Mohar Singh are coming to meet us within half an hour. Sardar Mohar Singh is the lumberdar of Samana city and we had met him and his wife during their visit of their shrine at Panja Sahib of Hasanabdal three years ago. We took our breakfast and got ready to meet them.

They came after half an hour as they had told us on phone. We told them that we have to seek the permission of our hosts for going with them to Samana city and Gharam Mandir.  They requested Sardar Atar Singh to permit us to go with them and Sardar Atar Singh willingly agreed to their request. We first of all went to the grand bungalow of Lumbardar of Samana city, Sardar Mohar Singh. We met his wife and other family members. One of his sons is a saint and very religiously following the orders of his religious Muslim saint who died many years ago. Many Muslims, Hindus and Sikhs come to him for seeking his blessings to heal their old chronic diseases. He is often meditating at the grave of his Muslim spiritual leader who is buried in the grave of a separate room. He met us with great zeal and enthusiasm.

After having spicy hot pakoras and dry fruits we moved towards the famous Dargah of Bheekam Shah at Gharam via Samana–Cheeka-Gula highway going to Delhi through the famous towns of Peehowa, Dand and Neelokheri located on the G.T. Road near Karnal city. We turned to our right at New Gaon and passing through many villages we reached the shrine of Baba Bheekam Shah. We had a detailed tour of the old well and the mosque which has a big pond of water for ablution. We climbed up the stairs to go to the roof of the grave of Bheekam Shah to have a general overall view of the area. After that we climbed down and met Baba Meeranji who is presently the spiritual leader of this famous place. He was basking sun and a very large crowd was sitting on the floor besides him. He greeted us and we had very interesting talk with him through a long session of questions and answers. He replied very shortly and simply to all of my difficult questions. We were offered hot glasses of milk with sweets. After one hour of our interesting dialogues we dispersed from there to meet the intelligent lady who is the spiritual leader as well of this shrine. She was very kind and very well remembered our short tour of our last visit in 2007.  She offered us glasses of hot milk and heavy bundles of sweets to take home. We thanked her and left the shrine of Baba Bheekam Shah. Gharam is famous for a demolished seven storied fort and for the birthplace of Ramchander who is a very famous saint of Hindus. 

From the shrine of Bheekam Shah we went directly to the house of a close relative of Sardar Guljeet Singh who lives very close to the shrine. He has built a very vast bungalow around which is located a large kitchen garden. We sat at their house and after taking hot milk and dry fruits we moved forward towards the famous Gurdowara of BHAULI where we had some photography. From there we moved ahead to the village called DEVINAGAR beyond which at three kilometers is situated the nine yards long grave of a Muslim saint named Peer Baba Syed Jamaluddin Shah. We prayed there for sometime and then returned to Samana city via the old village of my aunt Noori. This is located on the left bank of River Ghaghar and it is called Hansiali. I had lived here for a few months before the partition of India in 1947. There used to be very dense jungles full of fierce wild animals particularly very poisonous snakes. We chatted with some local residents of Hansiali village and took some photographs. This village falls in Hariana province and it is still undeveloped as before the partition of 1947 but there are neither dense jungles nor wild fierce animals now. The native villagers of Hansiali village insisted for our entertainment with hot milk and dry fruits but we had no spare time for this purpose. We therefore regretted their kind offer. After crossing Ghaghar River over a newly made bridge we again started our journey towards Samana city passing by the villages of Piprala, Qila Jaulahan (the fort of weavers) and Yagana Balwera where Sardar Tasrame Singh lives. He had served us last time with very delicious SAG, fresh butter and dry fruits when we had visited him during our first visit of India in 2007.  I requested my companions to spare some time so that we could visit Sardar Tasrame Singh in his house at Yagana Balwera but they did not agree as we were very late and some of our urgent agenda points were still pending.

We moved ahead to Samana city to visit the historic shrine of Panjpeers which is situated near the grain market on the Samana Bathinda Road. We were quite late and it seemed deserted. We met two caretakers who were very nice and showed us various important places of this Muslim shrine where the famous Muslim saint named Imam Aliwali Mashadi is buried. It would be worthwhile to reproduce the quoted text from Districts and States Gazeteer of the UNDIVED PUNJAB Volume IV page 238 published by the Government Press Lahore in 1925 given below:

“At SAMANA is the shrine of Aliwali believed to be the grandson of Imam Musa Raza, whose tomb is at Mashhad. He accompanied one of the earliest Mohammadan invaders of India and fell in the battle. His shrine, a fine building, is said to be destroyed by Sh. Ababuddin Ghauree (11^th century). It is believed that a tiger visits this shrine every Thursday night to worship the saint which is locally known as Mash-had wali.”

According to another local story SAMANA was the name of the grandmother of Imam Aliwali Mashhadi in whose name this very old city was established centuries ago.

At the end of our tour the caretakers of this Muslim shrine connected us with Professor Dr. Nashir Naqvi who is the Head of Urdu and Persian Departments of Punjabi University at Patiala city. We talked in detail for a long time and he gave us very valuable information. He invited us to Patiala city for giving us more written documentary information about this old historic Muslim shrine. We very much wanted to meet him at Patiala city but we could not do so due to lack of time. After our detailed visit of Panjpeer shrine of Samana city we returned to the grand bungalow of Lumberdar Sardar Mohar Singh where we had our delicious dinner and tea with dry fruits. We asked the permission   of Sardar Mohar Singh for going back to our headquarters at Namdharee farm house of Dhanauree village. We thanked Sardar Guljeet Singh and his lovely wife who spent their whole day to show us many important historic places. After offering our evening and night prayers together we went to our beds for having sound sleep.

WE VISITED SAMANA CITY, MAVI KALAN, MYSIR MANDIR AND PROFESSOR TALOCH MIR AT MAHMOODPUR ON 4^th OF NOVEMBER:

After offering our morning prayers we recited the holy Quraan and after that we basked the sun listening to the spiritual journey of Baba Fareed Shakargunj of Pakpatan as narrated by Santok Singh. After that we visited the fields of wheat and peas. Then I sucked pona (soft and extra sweet) sugarcane and ate the newly plucked guava fruit. After that we went to see the family of Sardar Harbhinder Singh in the adjoining Bungalow. They served us with hot milk and dry fruits. We had a long talk to all the family members of Harbhander Singh. He is the real brother of Baba Santok Singh.

After that, Sardar Atar Singh took us and his wife to Dhanauree village at the house of his sister. We met Sardar Shisha Singh who is his brother-in-law. Daughter-in-laws of Shisha Singh were preparing SAG of Sarsoon, fenugreek, spinach and BATHU. This dish is my favorite. We told Sardar Shisha Singh and his family members that on our return from Samana we would enjoy our dinner with them. They were very happy to hear it. From their house we went to the adjoining shrine of Dada Peer Saeed Shah who had been the founder of Dhanauree village. A new room had been constructed over the grave of Baba Saeed Shah. There were many statues and pictures of the Hindu and Sikh saints hung on the inner walls of the room. I told them not to bow very lowly before the graves of Peer Babas and not to hang pictures of any kind on the room walls. I also told them that entry of the dogs must be blocked into the shrines of Muslim saints. They all agreed to abide by my instructions. They asked some questions to which I replied at the spot.

After taking permission from Sardar Shisha Singh and his wife we went to Samana city where some medical tests of Mandeep Kaur, wife of Atar Singh had to be conducted. We went to see the newly purchased residential plots of Baba Santok Singh family in the very fine housing scheme near the new Tehsil office. About six miles ahead on the same road of Samana-Patran we went to Mavi Kalan where two Muslim brothers, Mr. Shauk and Mr. Harvinder are making the best harvester named ” HARVINDER” with old conventional techniques. They were happy to see us. They took us to their house in the centre of Mavi Kalan village. We met their family members who were very simple and lovely. It was the time of our noon prayers. We asked the direction of our Kibla i.e. the holy Mecca city towards which all Muslims must turn their faces while praying. They did not know anything in this respect. I further enquired from them about the regular five daily prayers, the fasting of Ramzan and the pilgrimage. They were totally blank. I asked if anyone of them could tell our kalima. They were again silent. I asked them if anyone of them could recite holy Quraan. They replied in negative. I asked if they had any type of holy Quraan. They kept silent but after sometime they brought a wooden box containing holy Quraan over which inches of dust had accumulated. All of this pained me much and I delivered a stern lecture on ignoring the teachings of Islam. The very fundamentals of Islam had been totally forgotten. It was strange to note that they have highest reputation all over India. The production of their harvester has been booked for the many coming years due to their honesty in dealings. Their young ones are going to the English medium schools in the same city of Samana where the education of holy Quraan and other Islamic teachings is available. But they were ignoring Islam and its teachings whereas they were attaching due importance to the modern worldly teaching. I censured them bitterly and they admitted their negligence. They promised to pay proper attention to Islam and its fundamental teachings. I was very glad that they had realized their negligence so soon. I am very sure that they would compensate very quickly what has been lost in the past.

We returned to Samana city from where the medical reports of Atar Singh and his wife had to be collected.  The reports showed no abnormality. We met the brothers of Mandeep Kaur who is the wife of Atar Singh. Their names are Sardar Awtar Singh and Sardar Gulzar Singh. Mr. Atar Singh asked Gulzar Singh to go to Delhi with us on sixth of December 2012. He knows Delhi very well and his expert knowledge of Delhi would help us in visiting various important historic places in Delhi. He promised that he would be ready to go with us to Delhi on sixth of December 2012.

After that we moved towards Mahmoodpur near MYSIR Mandir. After visiting the MYSIR MANDIR of Jain Sect we came to Mahmoodpur to meet Professor Talok Mir. He is a very reputed Homeo doctor and a famous poet. He met us very warmly. We exchanged our views. He offered us hot milk and home made sweets. We requested him to examine us medically. He prescribed many Homeo medicines some of which were given to us at the spot. He gave me five books on his poetry called “the translation of pains “. He did not give us his poetry book titled as “SHABDAN DI AWAZ” which can be translated as “the voice of words”.

We got his permission and came back to Dhanauree where Shisha Singh and his family members were very anxiously waiting for us on the dinner prepared for us. After taking our delicious dinner we went to the Namdhari farmhouse where we slept after saying our evening and night prayers.

OUR LAST DAY AT DHANAURI VILLAGE ON 5^th OF DECEMBER 2012 (Monday):

It was the last day of our tour at Dhanauri village as we had to leave it the next day going to Delhi for our return to Pakistan on 8^th of December 2012 by Pakistan International Airlines. Sardar Atar Singh had very kindly promised that he would not only take us to Delhi in his car but he would show us all the important historic places of Delhi. Our visit visa of India for thirty days was at its last legs but we had hardly seen any important places of the Indian Capital, Delhi.

During our visit of India five years ago in November/December 2007 we were some what confused as we knew nothing of India and its charming people and places. But this time we were very confident as we had enough information of all essential things we wanted to see during our visit. We very proudly say that we were given the best possible treatment by the Indians wherever we went. At some odd moments, particularly at the hard and difficult situations, the timely and willing help rendered by the India people can never be forgotten. We are very grateful to them.

I strolled over the vast fields of wheat, peas and vegetables and then went to the shrine of Peer Baba Hazrat Nathu Shah where suddenly two lion-like fierce dogs attacked me. Fortunately a farmer in the adjoining fields saw me being attacked by the fierce dogs. He came to my recue very promptly. He called his dogs in a peculiar loud voice and the fierce dogs rushed to him leaving me safe and sound. I was however gasping with terror. Finally I entered the holy shrine of Peer Baba Nathu Shah where I prayed very solemnly for the last time. This Muslim shrine had been given about five acres of agricultural land as a trust by the forefathers of Ch. Mehar Din Arrayeen. There was a boundary of bricks made before the partition of India in 1947. A very dense jungle full of wild animals surrounded this shrine. There is no boundary or any dense jungle now. Some statues and the pictures of some Hindu and Sikh saints have been hung on the inner walls of the room constructed recently over the grave of Baba Nathu Shah. This pained me much.  I had requested the caretakers of this shrine not to put any statues or hang any pictures on the walls of this Muslim shrine but no action had been taken.

I moved towards the Guru Gobind Model College of Dhanaure situated on the Dhanauri- Mavi Sanpanwali Road at a distance of one furlong from the Muslim shrine of Baba Nathu Shah in the western direction. Co-Principal Mr. Jasbeer Singh welcomed me and I was offered a simple cup of tea. We talked for about half an hour about numerous topics relating to the improvement of the Model College. I suggested many changes in the curriculum and proposed some new modern facilities such as the establishment of a modern computer laboratory with internet facilities.  Mr. Jasbeer Singh agreed to all of my suggestions. I donated rupees two and a half thousand for the monthly stipend for one year of a poor student boy and a poor student girl. He very gladly accepted my humble donation. It is sad to note that I sent the stipend for a poor boy and for a poor girl student of Dhanauri through some Sikh visitors who came to Pakistan on their religious events during the last five years but all of them forgot to hand our my donations to the concerned authorities of Dhanauri Model College.

After seeking his permission I straight away went to the nearby Muslim Shrine of Peer Baba Bakhay Shah which is located in the south at a distance of one furlong at a few yards off the Mavi Sanmpanwali-Dhanauri Road. I prayed there for the last time with great enthusiasm. I recollected my childhood when my fraternal uncle Mohammad Yousuf used to carry me on his shoulders to this shrine every Thursday night. There was a small mosque and a well close to this Muslim shrine. My uncle used to pray all the nightlong and I used to sleep besides him on the floor of the mosque. At sunrise my uncle used to carry me back to our village Dhanauri. There is no dense jungle and there are no wild fierce animals now. My uncle Mohammad Yousuf died twenty years ago but his sweet memories still haunt me every night. May God Almighty bless his holy soul.

I moved further with a heavy heart towards Dhanauri village to see it for the last time. I had hardly walked a furlong on the road when a Sikh couple saw me walking from a distance. The woman was the lovely daughter of late Sardar Pyara Singh of Kherki and she was accompanied by her husband. They took me to their newly made grand bungalow and served me with hot mug of milk and dry fruits. I came back to our headquarters at the Namdhari farmhouse where Baba Santok Singh was taking out the nursery of onions from earth to plant it at some other place. I went to see our old well of Peeruwala which is situated in the south at a distance of one furlong from Namdhari farm house. I got absorbed in my old sweet memories of this important well. This well was used as our rural headquarters before the partition of India in 1947. There was a bricked room constructed at a distance of one furlong from this well. The well is no more operational. It exists in a damaged condition and new tube-wells have replaced it as the subsoil water has gone to the depth of two hundred feet. There used to be a huge banyan tree near this well over which hundreds of naughty monkeys lived. The old giant banyan tree has been cut and removed. The bricked room has been demolished and its place is being used as a Shamshanghat (graveyard) where the dead bodies of Sikhs are burnt. I saw this important place of Sikhs where they burn their dead bodies.

From our old well of Peeruwala I moved further through the vast fields of wheat scattered over long distances. After two furlongs from our Peeruwala well I met a healthy Sardarji sitting besides his tube-well. I asked him about the local affairs of the area. He told me that they had purchased three acres of agricultural land at twenty seven lacs of rupees per acre about five years ago. They live in Patiala city from where he comes here every day to take care of his fields. I asked him about the proper way going to Nizamaliwala village. He told me that there was no way going straight to Nizamaliwala. Hence I had to go through the wet fields of wheat where I fell many times. Finally I reached the village of Nzamaliwala where I had to meet Sardar Jagtar Singh and his charming talented daughter Parvindar Kaur who topped her all examinations and got a gold medal in her M.B.A. They were surprised to see me at their door. They did not believe me when I told them that I had come on foot from the Namdharee farmhouse which is located at about four kilometers from their farmhouse at Nizamaliwal. Madam Parvindar Kaur was not feeling well. They served me with a hot glass of milk and dry fruits. I told them that I came to say farewell as we were leaving Dhanauri farmhouse next day. Sardar Jagtal Singh left me at Dhanauree village by his bike. An exciting Sikh marriage was going on at the main entrance of Dhanaure village where the marriage party dragged me into their dancing party. With great difficulty I got rid of this forced participation. I hurriedly moved in the streets of my old village called Dhanaure where grand new bungalows have replaced the old houses. I roamed here and there and finally went to the house of Sardar Shisha Singh at about sunset. I phoned Sardar Atar Singh who came in his car and took me to their Namdhari farmhouse. After taking dinner we said our evening and night prayers and then we had a sound sleep at night.

WE FINALLY DEPART OUR DHANAURI VILLAGE ON 6^th OF DECEMBER 2012:

We took our bed tea after offering our morning prayers. After taking lunch we met all the family members of Baba Santok Singh and Sardar Harbinder Singh. Packing of our shopped and gifted articles was a big headache. Our hosts helped us in this respect. We had brought some gifts for our hosts from Pakistan and in turn they loaded us with ten times of what had been brought by us. We requested our hosts not to load us with so much of their valuable gifts but they very vehemently insisted to accept their gifts to serve as a memory. We had no alternative except to accept the gifts from our hosts and the luggage weighed more than fifty kilograms. We thought that our total allowance was forty kilograms only for me and my wife but it was learnt later that it was sixty kilograms instead of forty kilograms as we had thought.

The time of our departure from the Namdhari farmhouse was a very emotional moment. Our hosts wanted us to stay more and we also wanted so but the rules of the Indian government did not allow us to extend our visit. We had to leave India before the end of thirty day visit visa expiry. PIA has only two flights per week. We had booked our return flight on 8^th of December 2012. Any extension in the visit visa period means serious violation of the rules and regulations with severe penalty of going to jail. We had no such idea of ending our marvelous tour of India in such a bad fashion. We explained our compulsions to our hosts which were very amicably accepted.

We departed from Dhanauree farmhouse to the nearby village called Gheora where mother-in-law of Sardar Atar Singh and brother-in-law Sardar Gulzar Singh live. We took Sardar Gulzar Singh with us to New Delhi as he had to show us important historic places there. We followed a short cut route to New Delhi via new Gaon, Cheeka, Gula, Peehowa, Dand and Neelokheri which is located on the G.T. Road, a few kilometers before Karnal city. We enjoyed fresh citrus juice at Karnal city on the road that leads to Meerut. From Karnal city we went ahead for some distance and stopped at a group of modern Dhabas (rural restaurants) which were very grand. We took some snacks with hot tea and restarted our journey towards New Delhi. It was dark and after crossing Panipat and Sonipat cities, the dazzling lights of New Delhi blinding our eyes were visible.

We reached the house of late brother of Gulzar Singh at Kalyan Vihar housing Society of New Delhi. It is located at the centre of New Delhi. We were tired and hence first of all we relaxed for some time and then took hot coffee with spicy refreshments. We were introduced to the widow of Gulzar Singh’s widow and his son who is doing his chartered accountancy. He is a very smart intelligent student who studies all the night long. His mother is a wise and rational lady with wide experience. The only son of Gulzar Singh also lives with them. He is a student of plus one.  He guided us during our tour of Delhi.

Delhi is a cosmopolitan city with a large lush green area scattered over many hundred square kilometers. It has a very old history. A large number of historic places are located here. It also has a large number of Muslim shrines. We could not see much of Delhi during our last visit of India during our visit of 2007. During our current visit we passed by Delhi more than five time times but did not see its important historic places. We had come now to Delhi one day before of return to Pakistan. Primarily we came here one day before our departure as no reliable information had been received for our confirmation of PIA flight PK271. We could not take the risk of missing it. There would be much trouble if we missed this flight of ours on 8^th of December and the next flight on 12^th of December 2012. Hence we had to be sure for our confirmed flight to Pakistan. The second reason of coming to Delhi was to see some important historic places and the famous Muslim shrines. Sardar Gulzar Singh was an expert of Delhi and he had been particularly brought with us so that he could show us important historic and religious places. We discussed our visit program of the next day.

After about one hour we took our delicious dinner and said our night prayers. We exchanged our views on numerous important topics. We reviewed our entire visit of India covered so far. It had been excellent in all respects. Only one day was left and we wanted to make the best use of it. Sardar Gulzar Singh was very confident that he would be showing us all important historic and religious places of Delhi. After a lot of discussion as what to see and what to omit we went to our beds and had very sound sleep.

ON 7th OF DECEMBER 2012 (THURSDAY) WE VISITED IMPORTANT HISTORIOC AND RELIGIOUS PLACES IN DELHI AFTER CONFIRMING OUR PIA FLIGHT PK271 GOING TO LAHORE ON 8^th OF DECEMBER 2012 (Friday):

We woke up early before sunrise at 4 am. We said our morning prayers and after taking our bed tea we slept again as we were very tired. At about 8 am we took our breakfast and started our trip for visiting various important historic and religious places of Delhi.  First of all we went to the Delhi University. We wanted to go first to the famous shrine of Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia and his bosom friend Amir Khusro but we forgot our route for going there. Instead, we went to the famous Rajghat where the burning places of Jawahar KLal Nehroo, Sanjay Ghanddi, Indra Ghandhi, Ghandhiji, Charan Singh, Rajiv Ghandi are located. We hurriedly visited these important historic places. My wife could not walk much. So she sat on a bench and waited for us.

After visiting Rajghat we went to Nizamuddin via Purana Qila, Zoo and Humayoon tomb. Our hosts parked on the road and I along with my wife went to see the shrine of Hazrat Nizamuddin and Amir Khusro. The shrine was overcrowded with men, women, children and innumerable visitors. Armies of beggars had made the shrine unable to walk It was the Juma (Friday) prayer time. I took my wife to the enclosure of women. I sat for offering my Juma prayers after the ablution. After the Friday prayers I visited the grave of Hazrat Nizamuddin. The crowd of visitors had made it impossible to take a step forward. After my visit of the grave of Hazrat Nizamuddin I took my wife closer to the grave where she prayed. Women are not allowed to enter the graves of the Muslim saints.

We went further to the grave of Hazrat Ameer Khusro and offered our prayers there for some time. After that we went to the adjoining grave of.Hazrat Hameeduddin Nagori on the top of a hill located nearby. Hazrat Hameeduddin Nagori was the teacher of Hazrat Nizamuddin. We visited other parts of this shrine and came out of it to meet our hosts. We suddenly remembered that we had forgotten to visit the grave of famous poet called Asadulla Ghalib. We went back and prayed on the grave of the famous poet. Our hosts were annoyed for their long tiring waiting for us.

I requested them to go to the Muslim shrine of Hazrat Bakhtiar Kaki located in Mehrauli which is located at seven kilometers from the shrine of Hazrat Nizamuddin. There was a jam of traffic at many places. We also missed the right route and therefore we took more than one hour to go to the shrine of Hazrat Bakhtiar Kaki. All of our hosts and my wife were tired and bored with the traffic jams. They parked their car at a safe place and asked me to visit the shrine of Hazrat Bakhtiar Kaki alone. So I went alone and hurriedly completed my visit of this sacred place. I had a serious fight with the Mojawar of this shrine who was forcibly getting heavy donations from the visitors. I bought the holy Quraan with pronunciation in Hindi language. I came back and joined my hosts who were very anxiously waiting for my return.

I requested them to take me to the shrine of Hazrat Naseeruddin Chiragh Dehlvi but they were all reluctant to go there due to their tiredness. We were also hungry as we had taken nothing after our breakfast. This had been done to save time for visiting as many historic and religious places as possible. Having no alternative I agreed to return to our house at Kalyan Vihar. During our return we saw a very large grand circular market called Cannaught Place which is famous for its commercial centers.

On the way back we had to pass by the grand Jama Masjid constructed by emporer  Shah Jahan. There was no place to park our car at this place. So we had to go ahead to the Chandni Chowk for parking the car. The parking place was full and there was no space left to park our car. I and Sardar Gulzar Singh got out of the car and made our way on foot to the Urdu Bazar which was located beyond Jama Masjid at a distance of two kilometers from where we parked our car. Sardar Atar Singh and others remained seated in the car so that police may not lift the car with their fork lifter. We walked and walked till we were extremely tired. My friend, Dr. Rafi-udd-din Hasmi had phoned me to bring two books on Allama Iqbal supposed to be available on some book shop of Urdu bazaar at Delhi. We made all efforts to get these books but failed. Finally one book could be found and it was bought instantly. For getting the other book we had to contact its publisher on phone. When contacted he said that their office had closed and he did not know if any one of the book volume is available. I earnestly requested him that I am from Pakistan and I must get one book. He asked me to hold on phone. After asking me to hold the phone he told me that only one piece is left which has been reserved as a reference for its future printing. I requested him to give the book to me as the master reference piece must be available as a soft copy on their computer. After some reluctance he told us to come to him at his office located in the Ansari Street near Golcha cinema. We took a man driven rickshaw and went there but his office was locked. We were extremely disappointed. We went upstairs and knocked the door in front of us. A Youngman appeared and we asked him to give us the book he had promised on phone. He was surprised at our demand. He told us that he was a student and he did not know any publisher. He advised us to phone the publisher who may be available inside his locked office. We climbed down the stairs and phoned. To our good luck a sturdy man came out. We reminded him of our telephonic talk. He pointed us to come into his office. He gave us the book and we came out of his office very quickly fearing that he may not take the book back. The rickshaw driver was waiting for us. We asked him to drive us to the Chandni Chowk where our car had been parked along with our hosts who were extremely happy to see us after two hours. We had missed about one dozen of our important agenda points due to the time consumed in getting the books for our friend Dr. Rafi-udd-din Hashmi. To buy something from a crowded bazaar of Delhi means spending too much time for it. Even after spending a lot of your precious time you may not get what you wanted. Hence you must have enough spare time at your disposal to buy something.

We rushed straight away to the house of our hosts at Kalyan Vihar of central Delhi where they had been anxiously waiting for us. There was a serious traffic jam on the roads of Delhi. It had taken more than one hour to reach our destination at Kalyan Vihar. We were very hungry. We requested our hosts at Delhi to serve us our dinner without delay and they were very kind to do so. After dinner we had very delicious hot cups of coffee. A lively talk was then started. Our host lady asked me if we had completed all of our agenda points for today. I told her that yes of course except a dozen of them. She asked me asked me again as to how many of the total agenda points of today had been completed. I told her that only four agenda points had been completed. She was extremely surprised at my reply and she did not feel like believing me although I had told the absolute truth. However, I did not explain my reply. After some time we went to our beds as we were very tired. I thought at night before sleeping that I must come to India for visiting the remaining important historic and religious places at Delhi.

WE LEAVE INDIA BY PIA ON 8^th OF DECEMBER 2012 (Saturday):

We got up very early in the morning and offered our morning prayers. After taking bed tea with dry fruits we slept again as we were very tired. We had learnt a lesson that traveling in Delhi is totally unpredictable. A normal distance which can be easily covered in ten minutes may take more than one hour due to unpredictable traffic jams. For this important reason we decided to start our journey to the Delhi International Airport as early as at ten O’clock in the morning of 8^th December 2012. Sufficient allowance had to be given to cater for the unpredictable traffic jams.

We loaded our luggage in the car and asked the permission to leave our hosts at Delhi. We took our start at about eleven O’clock and had to face many traffic jams on our way to the Delhi International Airport. We arrived finally at the airport at two O’clock in the afternoon. We had one hour at our disposal to spend as we wanted at the Delhi International Airport. The check-in started at three O’clock and we were afraid of being charged heavily for our extra load of ten kilograms. To our great surprise we were told that we were entitled to carry thirty kilograms per head of unaccompanied luggage. It was a great relief as we had very little amount of money left with us for the payment of any extra load. We wished to buy some extra article for our children but it was too late.

After handing over our unaccompanied baggage with the PIA staff we proceeded ahead for our visa control formalities. It did not take any time as the counter was occupied by a very good natured Sardarji. After that we went to the Indian custom counter where I was asked to open the bag carried on my shoulders. They asked me if I was carrying any weapon or medicine. I told them that I was carrying a very small shaving scissors and some medicines used for cancer treatment. They asked me to take out both of them which have to be forefieted. I requested them to allow the medicines for the treatment of cancer whereas the scissors could be happily forefieted. The cancer medicines had been urgently purchased by us on our arrival at Delhi and we wanted to send them by the courier but it was not allowed. Respected Salahuddin for whom we purchased these cancer medicines had expired in the meantime. They agreed to my request of allowing the cancer medicines and I was cleared from the customs counter. We went to the departure lounge and did some window shopping. It was announced that the boarding had started. We moved to the gate number 6 which was very far away and there was no wheel chair for my wife who was suffering from serious rheumatoid disease. We reached our plane only two minutes before its taking off. My wife was gasping. I gave her a glass of water and her serious palpitations subsided soon. We were relieved.

It hardly took forty minutes for our air journey to complete. An officer of Pakistan Airport Securitynamed Shafqat Hussain was travelling with us next to our seats. He helped us for the clearance of our passport and customs formalities. We wanted to take a taxicab from Lahore airport to Islamabad but their rent was exorbitant. Our friends, Mr. Abdul Karim and Sh. Mohammad Jahangir had come to the airport to receive us but we preferred to go straight to Lahore. Hence they made arrangements for booking by Daewoo Bus service going to Islamabad. Mr. Kamran Rasheed was very kind to take us to the Daewoo Bus stand. He had also brought very delicious food packed for us. We were very hungry. We ate the food and sat in the comfortable bus of Daewoo Company which brought us to its Rawalpindi Bus Stand where our youngest son, Mr. Eisa Bin Bashir Khadim received us at about two O’clock after midnight of 9^th December 2012. Within half an hour we came to our house in Islamabad where all of our family members were waiting for us. They briefly asked us about our second travel to India. We briefly told them all about it. It was quite late at night and we were very tired. Hence we slept immediately. Next day we narrated briefly various important events of our second travel to India. They were surprised at what we had seen during our brief period of thirty days.

                                                                                          

Bashir Ahmad Khadim, Retired Chief Engineer Telecommunications (Pak. T&T / PTCL)

House 226 Street 18 Sector F-10/2 Islamabad Pakistan.

Phone: + 051-2212476  Mobile Phone: +0345-5096929

E-mail: khadimbashir@gmail.com Dated 13^th of December 2012.